Solar Panels For Goal Zero Power Stations/Solar Generators
I live full-time in an RV and travel the country. My nights are usually spent out in the boondocks, nowhere close to the power grid.
I need electricity though since I work online and love binge-watching shows on the TV in my camper, no matter where I am.
Related Product: Goal Zero Lighthouse Solar Camping Lantern (click to view on Amazon)
We had to decide if we wanted a loud generator or solar panels. We chose solar.
When my wife and I wanted to get into solar, we decided to purchase a Goal Zero Yeti 1000 (click to view current model on Amazon) for our RV.
We’ve had it for over a year now, and so far it’s doing a great job and is how we get power in our travel trailer to charge our 12V RV batteries, watch TV, charge our laptops, cameras, phones, and other devices.
We plug the travel trailer directly into the Yeti with a 15A to 30A adapter (click to view on Amazon).
Since it’s a so-called “solar generator” that can’t generate power on its own in any way, we also had to buy some solar panels to go with it, and we looked for high-quality, efficient alternatives to the Boulder panels.
After seeing a deal online, we purchased two Renogy 100W foldable suitcases (click to view on Amazon) and two Renogy 100W (click to view on Amazon) that we’ve installed on top of our RV.
See Also: Goal Zero Yeti 1500X Vs 3000X
When looking for solar panels for the Goal Zero Yeti Lithium power stations, it’s easy to get confused about which solar panels are compatible and why so that’s what we’re clearing up today.
Let’s take a look at some great solar panels that are compatible with the Goal Zero Yeti Lithium power stations, and then we’ll talk about what makes them compatible and which ones are the best for what scenario.
Please be aware that while I am using 3rd party solar panels with my Yeti, you should consult with Goal Zero before you connect anything to make sure that it’s compatible. I don’t work for Goal Zero, and am not responsible for any damage.
Best Solar Panels to Charge Goal Zero Yeti Lithium
My RV Roof Choice
My Portable Choice
Last update on 2023-06-01 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API
(click links to view products on Amazon)
The Additional Adapter You Need
To use the solar panels above that has a checkmark by the “Requires Additional Adapter”, you need to use this adapter (click to view on Amazon) if you want to use the Anderson Power Pole input, or this adapter (click to view on Amazon) if you want to use the 8mm input.
Since the 8mm input max out at 10A (120W) input, you should use the Anderson input if your Yeti has one.
See Also: Connecting Third-Party Panels To Goal Zero Yeti, How It’s Done
Note that the only Yeti power stations with the Anderson input are Yeti 1000, 1000X, 1250, 1400, 1500X, 3000, 3000X, and 6000X. All models have at least one 8mm input.
Although the latest Yeti 1000X, , 3000X, and 6000X have a total of three input ports, only one can be used at once.
The port receiving the highest voltage will be the one that’s activated. Therefore, you can not use the wall charger and solar panels at the same time.
What Makes a Solar Panel Compatible with Goal Zero Yeti Lithium
On the older Yeti Lithium (400, 1000, 1400, 3000) and the newer smaller Yeti X (200X, 500X) there is a sticker that says not to go over 22V input.
On the newer larger Yetis (1000X, 1500X, 3000X, 6000X) the sticker says to keep it below 50V.
Well, what voltage is that talking about? There has been some confusion online as to what the 22V/50V limit means and what number in the spec sheet of a solar panel is relevant.
I have even seen mixed answers by Goal Zero themselves on their website and manual.
The latest information I have is that this 22V/50V limit is talking about the VMP of a solar panel.
Vmp is the maximum operating voltage, and can often be found in the specs on a solar panel product page. It’s the voltage when the power output is at its highest.
If you plan on putting your panels on an RV, van, or bus roof, the HQST and Renogy are great choices.
However, if you want to be able to park in the shade and move your panels around, get a portable suitcase-style panel with a kickstand.
Having portable panels quickly becomes a daily chore, but it lets you park in the shade in the summer and keep your camper cooler.
Goal Zero Yeti Non-lithium
If you have a non-lithium Yeti station, the max input voltage rating is different and depends on what model you own or purchase.
Goal Zero Yeti 150 – Has one 8mm port that supports 14-29V, up to 5A (60W max).
Goal Zero Yeti 400 – Has one 8mm port, supporting 14-29V up to 10A (120W max)
Goal Zero Yeti 1250 – Has one power pole charging port, supporting 16-48V, up to 20A (240W max), and two 8mm, supporting 16-48V, up to 10A each. Supports a total of 240W solar input.
Since the non-lithium Yetis have higher maximum voltages, you can use a panel like the Renogy 160W and Renogy 175W Flexible with a MC4 to 8mm cable adapter.
Connecting Two or More Panels
When connecting two or more solar panels to a Goal Zero Yeti, the Vmp rating is as important as with just one panel.
If your Yeti can only handle 22V, you need to wire your panels in parallel. If you have one of the newer models that can take up to 50V, you can wire panels in series but you need to do the math to know that the total voltage will stay below 50V.
It’s also important that you understand that the more panels, the more amperage or voltage depending on how you wire them, so you need to use wire that’s thick enough for the amperage.
I recommend using this calculator (click on Solar Cable Gauge Calculator) Renogy has made where you can enter the Vmp and Imp your setup is rated at and how long of a cable you need.
Below the calculator, you can also find NEC’s ratings for the maximum current for different wire sizes.
A parallel connection
A connector like this (click here) will let you connect two panels in parallel. Plug each positive wire into the same connector.
Then you take both negative wires, plug those into the negative (black) male on the adapter that you’ll plug into the Goal Zero.
If you want to connect three panels, this is the adapter you’ll need.
If you want to connect four panels, this is the adapter you’ll need.
A series connection
Unlike a parallel connection, a series connection does add the voltages together, but the amps stay the same.
So if the 100W 12V panel has a VMP rating of 17.9V and outputs 5.5A, two panels wired in series will output 35.8V (17.9*2), but still 5.5A.
Because the charge controllers are sensitive to voltage, you need to add the voltages together to make sure the total is below 50V if you’ve made a series connection.
How to Connect Third-Party Solar Panels to Goal Zero Yeti?
I have written a post about how to connect third-party panels to a Goal Zero Yeti that you can find by clicking here!
Frequently Asked Questions
Monocrystalline vs. Polycrystalline?
Monocrystalline costs more but is more efficient, both in terms of power output and space.
Polycrystalline are cheaper to make but have lower heat tolerance which makes them less efficient in high temperatures. They also take up more space.
Monocrystalline panels are often 18-22% efficient, while polycrystalline panels are usually 14-16% efficient.
Can I Use a Solar Panel with a Built-In Charge Controller with the Goal Zero Yeti?
No, since the Goal Zero Yeti power stations have at least one charge controller built-in, you shouldn’t go through another charge controller before the power reaches the Yeti.
You want panels to go straight into the Yeti.
How Fast Will a Solar Panel Charge Goal Zero Yeti?
There are different Yeti sizes, from 168w to 6000 watt-hours.
I have the Yeti 1000. With all of my panels (400W total) plugged into it on a sunny day, I see around 280Wh an hour. 1045/280=3.73, so it should take about 4 hours to charge my Yeti from 0 to 100% in perfect sunny conditions.
Take these numbers with a grain of salt though as several factors play into actual charging times. I’d say it’s closer to five hours usually.
So how fast your panels can charge your Yeti depends on how big the Yeti is, how many panels you have, and how the weather is.
How to Charge My Goal Zero Yeti Faster?
There are a couple of things you can do to charge your Yeti faster with solar panels. One of them is to purchase the MPPT charge controller (click to view on Amazon) that increases the charging efficiency.
This charge controller is compatible with the Yeti 1000, 1000X, 1400, 1500X, 3000X, and 6000W.
The MPPT charge controller will also increase the amount of solar you can connect in total to the Yeti, by 360W.
If your Yeti has a USB C PD input/output, you could also charge it faster with a USB C PD charger.
Is There A Solar Panel That Will Recharge Both My 12V RV Batteries And Power Station?
I have written a post over on the Solar Addict about a panel that does this, click here to view it.
Let me know in the comments below if you have anything to add or any questions that haven’t been answered.
114 thoughts on “Which Solar Panels Are Compatible with Goal Zero Yeti 2023?”
Hi, I am trying to follow your set up for the Renogy 100W 12V Monocrystalline Foldable Solar Panel Suitcase with a Yeti 1000 lithium battery, but when I look at the panels from your Amazon link, there is not enough technical information listed about the panel for me to know if it has the same specs you refer to in your article. I would like to follow your set up because I currently live in a California wildfire area where my electricity could be shut off and I’d like to have enough back-up power to keep a few things going.
I will also be buying an RV in the next year or so and your set up sounds like the right thing to have. But I have a hard time understanding the amps, watts, and voltages information.
Your web site is a great find for me. Thanks,
Hello Nancy, sorry for the late answer to your comment.
Regarding the panels, if the info isn’t available on Amazon I recommend checking Renogy’s website. The specific foldable panel I use and the specs about it can be found here: https://www.renogy.com/100-watt-12-volt-monocrystalline-foldable-solar-suitcase-w-o-controller/
That sounds awesome, I am excited for you! I do like and recommend my setup, especially for beginners that want a plug-and-play system. I plug my Yeti 1000 directly into my trailer and run everything except the A/C. It charges quickly during the day with my solar panels and is easy to use.
Thank you for your comment!
Jesse, Thank you very, very much for the super helpful article. I purchased a Yeti 1000 for off-grid camping and to help out at home when we have power outages. You have a great way of explaining information in an easy to understand way. I really appreciate it. Trish
Thank you for your comment and kind words. That’s awesome. I am still happy with mine and bet you will be too!
Jesse, I see you review the Nomad 100 on another link. Would you go with the Renogy 100 (or another above) OR a Nomad 100? I’ll be using with with a Goal Zero Yeti 1000. Thank you! Trish
Honestly, I would go with the Boulder 100 for its build, handle, stand, bag and straightforward connectivity without additional adapters. Sure, it’s not the cheapest panel out there, but after using a Renogy suitcase for a couple of months and comparing it to the Boulder 100, I think the Boulder 100 is worth its price.
EDIT: I confused the names, changed my answer from Nomad 100 to Boulder 100.
Thank you so much for this helpful article. To be sure that I understand it correctly, a solar panel of 24V is not compatible with the Goal Zero Yeti 1000?
If I have 1200W of solar panels but they’re all 24V (max 50A), and I want them to charge the Yeti 1400 so I get a DC/DC 24v-12V converter that can handle up to 20A (max 100A), am I limiting my 1200W of solar panels to 240W (12V*20A=240W)?
Where can I find a good calculator to determine battery duration give multiple concurrent charge and draw scenarios?
hi campingnerd, got a question, hoping you can answer. I just purchased a new 26ft Class A and I had 2 solar panels installed on the roof to recharge the batteries. I am wondering if there is a way to recharge my goal zeros with those solar panels as well, I have a 1000w and a 1400w. I assume I have to find where they are connected to the battery. wondering if you have had any experience with that?
I can think of two ways to do it.
This is most likely what the setup looks like right now: Solar panels -> solar charge controller -> batteries. Since the Yeti stations come with a solar charge controller built-in, you’ll have to create a connection directly between the solar panels and your Yetis. You don’t want to go through two solar charge controllers.
If you can access the solar charge controller, you can get a pack of MC4 connectors. I’d then install a pair of those connectors on the wire between the solar charge controller and the solar panels, so you can create the connection that is already there while having the choice to get a direct connection to your panels. You could then use a MC4 to Anderson Powerpole adapter and plug the panels into one of your Yetis when they need a charge.
You would have to make sure that your panels are compatible with the Yeti. Their Vmp rating can’t exceed 22 volts, and the panels must be wired in parallel, meaning that the positive ends from both panels meet, separate from negative wires.
The second way you can do it is much more costly, but I believe the Yeti Car Link expansion module with a Female EC8 to Ring Terminal would allow you to charge the Yetis from your 12V batteries with a quick connection. This way, the panels would charge your batteries, and the battery would charge your Yetis.
Someone else might have a better way to do it, but that’s what I can come up with for now.
Thank you for your suggestion! Trish
Okay, I promise, one last question…how is the Nomad 100 different/better than the Boulder 100 by YETI?
I just realized I got the names confused above, I was talking about the Boulder, not the Nomad, sorry about that. To clarify, I would choose the Boulder 100 over the Renogy 100W suitcase.
In terms of the Nomad: The Nomad 100 is more portable than the Boulder panels since it folds and stores easier. It’s also much lighter at 11 lbs vs. 26 lbs.
The Boulder is more sturdy, has a stand built-in, and a great choice if you have space for it. So you either choose one that’s easy to pack (Nomad), or one that’s easy to handle and move when set up (Boulder). The Boulder is also easier to tilt thanks to its stand, which is very useful during the winter.
EDIT: I wrote a post comparing the two that you can find by clicking here.
Thank you very much!
I hooked up an Allpower 12v 100watt panel to the Goal Zero “Y” adapter and plug it into the Input terminal. The light above the Input plugin did not light up and zero watts were registering on the display screen. The battery is at 100 % full. My multimeter indicates I am getting amps through the wires. Any ideas?
It must be because the battery is already at 100%. Use one of the AC outlets for a minute, then plug in the solar panel again and see if it starts charging.
Not sure if it’s just on my end but I clicked on the adapter for three panels and it didn’t work. Trying to decide on 2 100w or 3 100 w to power my goal zero 1000.
Thank you for bringing this to my attention, I have updated the link with a product that’s available.
I recommend three if you have space for it, that would let you recharge the Yeti 1000 from 0-100% in about 5 hours versus 7.5 hours with two panels. But it depends on how much power you think you’re going to need.
I have 100×4 connected to my Yeti but still wish I had more some days. That is because I use my coffeemaker twice a day, run my microwave, and charge two laptops for about 8 hours a day.
Thanks for the fast reply. May I double check with you to see if I have everything right before I buy? I was going to do 2, but I think 3 is a better idea, like you said.
(This is for my Goal Zero 1000.)
I’ll be getting 3 Renology 12v 100w monochrystalline panels (compact design)
Signstek Y branch adapter cable
MPPT charging module
Windynation 12 gauge 12AWG 15 feet black and red extension cable (maybe I should go with 5 feet though, as it’s for my e-150 van..)
Linksolar double entry gland (for the mc4 ext)
INSTABOOST 10AWG cable
I would plug the three panels in parallel, then plug into the red and black extension cable (and pass through roof) then connect to INSTABOOST, then connect to MPPT to the goal zero unit. Hopefully I got that right, getting anxious about putting it all together.
I really appreciate your guide here AND your additional answers to all my questions.
The problem I am seeing is that the Linksolar entry plate holes are only large enough for wire 2-6/6-12mm, and not MC4 connectors. So what you would have to do is get a pair of BougeRV Solar Panel wires with bare wire on one end instead of the Windynation extension cables. These come with a pair of MC4 connectors that you’ll install to the wire inside your van after pulling the wire through the entry plate and the roof.
After you’ve pulled the BougeRV MC4 cables through the entry plate housing as shown in the video, you can install MC4 connectors on the bare wire end, and then connect those to the Instaboost MC4 to APP adapter. Make sure positive goes to positive.
Installing MC4 connectors isn’t hard, I recommend following this step-by-step guide on Instructables.com. A solar crimping tool makes it easier.
I also recommend buying longer wire than you think you need (unless you have measured exactly how much you need), and also get a wire stripper so you can shorten the cable when you know exactly how much you need, and strip the wire to install the MC4 connectors.
The alternative to doing everything above would be to skip the Linksolar entry and cut a larger hole in the roof that fits MC4 connectors. Then use a lot of dicor to create a waterproof seal.
Other than that, it sounds right! I’m sorry to add more anxiety to the install, I know the feeling!
I have some leftover Dicor from the maxxfan so maybe I’ll just that route. Thank you!
Also, went to buy the goal zero 1000 at Costco (sale price $1000) and it’s no longer for sale there. I must have missed it by a day. Do you know any other places selling it for less than the original $1200 price? I can’t believe I missed it by literally a day.
Unfortunately I don’t, but there are refurbished models available on eBay, sold by Goal Zero. I own a refurbished model and it works great.
The downside with the refurbished ones is that you only get 6 months warranty instead of the full year you get with a new Yeti 1000.
I have a YETI 400 non lithium battery, I am looking to connect a Maxray 160w 12 v solar blanket. I am unsure about the connections. The blanket has a MPPT reg. with an USB connection. It also has Anderson connections.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Looks like the Maxray solar panel uses Anderson Multi-pole connectors, so what you’re looking for is an Anderson SB to MC4 adapter (not the more common MC4 to Anderson Power Pole) with the correct polarity, so you can use the MC4 to 8mm adapter with your Yeti.
If you can’t find an adapter like that, what I would do is cut the Anderson connectors coming from the solar panel off and install some MC4 connectors. But then you won’t be able to use the USB charge controller to charge other 12V batteries.
You will need a pair of MC4 connectors, a crimping tool, wire strippers, and wire cutters to set it up. The most important part is making sure you install a male MC4 connector on the positive (red) wire coming from the solar panel, so the polarity will be correct when you connect it to the MC4 to 8mm adapter.
Also, the Yeti 400 has a charge controller built-in, so you won’t need to use the charge controller that came with the panel.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Plugging two 100 watt renology into the yeti 1000:
Just wondering which connector goes into each extension cable color, since both have female and male ends on them. On the connectors I have a male positive and I have a female negative. Which one goes to which color and is it the female or male on the extension cable? If that makes sense?
Once I have that hooked up then I run the extension cable to the Anderson cable to the MPPT to the yeti correct?
If you’re using the MC4 Y Branch, you’ll have a positive male MC4 connector and a negative MC4 female connector that needs to be connected to the extension cables.
The positive MC4 connector from the MC4 Y Branch will go to the MC4 female connector on the red extension cord, which will have an MC4 male connector that will plug into the positive MC4 female connector on the MC4 to Anderson connector. Then you’ll use the second black extension cord and plug it in the only way possible.
The MC4 to Anderson adapter is what is plugged into the Yeti, yes.
Let me know if I didn’t understand your question correctly or if you have other questions.
Nice website. Thanks for the info.
So I just called Goal Zero and spoke with one of their associates and asked them what the 22V input maximum mean (I was unsure due to the fact that some of the suggested panels seemed to have Voc of 22.5V). The rep at Goal Zero told me that the 22V is in reference to the Vmp, and NOT the Voc. I asked him about the Voc and said that you had reached out to them as well, and he told me that you might have been given the wrong answer.
Worth double checking and updating your post if so – it does make sense that it looks at Vmp and not Voc (since Voc is the voltage that the panel has when it is not plugged in). Vmp is the maximum voltage that is present when it is in operation.
Let me know if you end up finding the same.
Thank you for leaving a comment and letting me/us know. I’ve been confused by it too due to how the voltages work. Especially since their own Boulder 100 has a 22.5V VOC rating as you mention.
I’ll be updating the post, it’s unfortunate that Goal Zero has a different answer each time the question is asked.
Thanks again for taking the time to share the info.
Hi, I have the most simplistic of questions and am embarrassed to have to ask. I have read this post and several other by you. Very informative and helpful but I still don’t understand what accessories I need.
I recently purchased the Yeti 1000 generator and 2 Boulder panels as emergency power for our freezers. What do i need to combined the two and then connect to my generator? Is Anderson preferred over 8mm? I am also ordering the MPPT to enhance the efficiency.
Ultimately, I need to run a ~25 foot line from the panels (on roof of garage) to my generator. So, how do I get the two in parallel and then the run to the generator?
Do i get a 4-to-1 connector (may eventually want 2 more panels and may, when budget permits upgrade to the 3000 generator – i like the WiFi and capacity) and then a 30-foot Anderson cable?
One of these: https://smile.amazon.com/Goal-Zero-Combiner-Anderson-Connector/dp/B072KP53XK/ref=sr_1_9?crid=2V4JS7LQBDPM3
One of these: https://smile.amazon.com/POWER-EXPANSION-CABLE-ACCESSORY-PORTABLE/dp/B00HDKFQS6/
If you have two Boulder 100 with 8mm outputs, the 8mm to Anderson 4X combiner cable is the correct cable to combine up to four panels. If you have a Boulder 200, you need the Anderson 4X combiner since the Boulder 200 has an Anderson PowerPole output.
For an Anderson extension cable, you need to make sure it’s an Anderson PowerPole type, like the Goal Zero APP 15ft Extension cable. There are other types of Anderson cables, so make sure it’s the one that looks the same as the Goal Zero input. You can combine two of the Goal Zero extension cables to create a longer cable.
The 8mm ports can only handle up to 120W, while the Anderson PowerPole can handle up to 360W, so in your case, the Anderson is the way to go.
Let me know if you have any questions.
We plan to connect 4 x 100 Watt panels to our Yeti 3000. We want to use the Yeti’s Anderson Power pole in order to use the faster built in charger.
Which Renogy panels are waterproof? We get a lot of rain and we don’t want to have to rush out to move the protect or panels. We plan to use the Yet 3000 as an emergency backup for our freezers in case of power outages so we do need some portability to do setup …but once it it there we won’i be moving it much until the power comes back on. Unless of course it rains…hence our need for waterproofing
We’re not wedded to Renogy …but Yeti told us that their panels cannot handle any extended downpour or being left out overnight.
Most solid panels are waterproof, or at least water-resistant enough to withstand rain.
For a portable panel with a built-in stand, the Renogy 100W Suitcase panel is a good choice. I own two of these and leave them out in rain- and snowstorms without issues. Strong winds can cause them to fall over but I usually put rocks on the stands to prevent that.
I also have two Renogy 100W on top of my camper that have been through it all and are working just fine. You could either lean them on something or put them straight on the ground. The junction box is IP65 rated which means that it’s protected against water from any direction but shouldn’t be totally submerged.
To connect the four panels, you’ll use an MC4 Y Branch (1 to 4). Then I recommend using Windynation MC4 extension cables to the MC4 to Anderson adapter which you’ll plug into your Yeti 3000.
Let me know if you have any questions.
I’ve purchased the new Yeti 500X which has is MPPT from factory. I’m panning to use the 2 x 160W flexible panels (we dont have 100W renogy flexible panels in the EU and I’m running a roof top tent) to charge the yeti. How do you recommend connecting it. In parallel or series and why. (its my first time getting my hands wet with electrics).
With Goal Zero Yeti power stations you only have one option and that is to use a parallel connection. That’s when you connect the positives together separately from the negatives with an MC4 Y branch. A parallel connection will double the amperage, but keep the voltage the same. A series connection doesn’t double the amperage, but the voltage.
The reason this is the only option is because of the solar charge controller inside of the Yeti which has a 22V input limit. One of those 160W panels outputs about 19V under load, so a series connection would put it way above what the charge controller can handle (19V*2=38V). Therefore, a parallel connection is the only way to go.
Also, your Yeti 500X has a 10A (120W) input limit, so connecting two 160W panels would be a bit overkill. I wouldn’t connect more than 200W of panels for that reason, hopefully you can find some 100W panels.
Let me know if you have any questions.
My husband and I are thinking of purchasing a Goal Zero Yeti 1000 for our camper van. We would like to go solar and want to mount the panels to the roof of our van. I noticed there are several Renogy 100 W solar panel models available. Do you have a preference? Can we use two 160 W Renogy solar panels with this power station?
I use and recommend these: Renogy 100W solar panels. If you pick a different panel, make sure it is a 12V monocrystalline panel with MC4 connectors.
According to Goal Zero, you can use the Renogy 160W panels. To use two you need to wire them in parallel with an MC4 Y branch, then connect the branch to the MC4 to Anderson PowerPole adapter. You can also add a WindyNation MC4 extension cable between the MC4 Y branch and the Anderson adapter.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Great article and resource site!
I’m looking to use this solar panel to charge my Yeti 1400:
The website says this Merlin Solar panel has a Voltage @ Pmax of 22.88 V
I’m making a 10 AWG cable with a SB50 to connect to the solar panel and a normal Anderson Power Pole connector on the other end to connect to the Power Pole input on the Yeti 1400.
I have a Yeti Link module installed and that’s connected to the car’s starter battery. So the Yeti will charge while the car is running. The car and yeti will be potentially getting a charge from the solar panel as well while driving. And when camping and the car off the yeti and starter will still be getting a charge from the solar panel. At least that’s the plan.
Question: Is it ok to connect the panel to the Yeti 1400 with the Yeti having a max input of 22 V and the solar panel having a Pmax of 22.88 V?
Hello Ben, nice setup!
Unfortunately, that solar panel is not compatible with the Goal Zero Yeti power stations. The voltage is a bit too high and the Yeti wouldn’t accept any input from it.
I suggest using Renogy 100W flexible panels.
awesome Homepage, helped so much already. Thanks a lot for all your afford!
I have the Goal Zero 1400 and was thinking of getting the 160W Renogy Panel, would you recommend that? It sounded like the 100W ones are more compatible.
Hello Pia, thank you!
So there have been some mixed messages from Goal Zero on whether the Renogy 160W panel is supported or not. The latest info I can tell you is that it is compatible due to the VMP rating being below 22 volts. I do recommend the 160W panel over the 100W if you have space for it since it will charge the Yeti much faster.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks for your quick answer! So I tried to order it (of corse with your link) but sadly it is not available in Germany. I found two which I think could work too. Here are the links, its in German but probably you understand the technical information still better than me :))
If you could check and make an affiliated link out of it so I can support you? But don’t worry at all if it is too much of a hassle, all your information you provide here is so helpful already.
No worries! Based on the ratings, the 150W panel should work. I’m not sure about the second panel because it has a voltage of 23.7V, so I would go with the first one you linked.
Let me know if you have any issues when connecting the panel or other questions.
Wow this is really informative & helpful! Thanks for sharing your knowledge & putting everything I needed to know right here! Got a GZ 400 Lithium & looking for 3rd party solar panels (foldable & ~100W) for camping, but didn’t know what to look for initially. Cheers! 😃
Thanks for your comment, GM! Glad I could help!
Thanks so much for all this information! I can’t find nearly this much detail on any of the product website, so I am very grateful. I have a Yeti 1400 power station, which says it can handle up to 360watts, and I have three Renology solar panels, two 100w and one 160w. I read the fine print and it looks like the yeti wants no more than 120w per input plug, it has 1 AAP input plug and 2 8mm input plugs. Can I (parallel) connect the solar panels to each other and then to one of the input plug or do I have to attach each panel to its own input plug and not exceed 120w per input (and return the 160w panel that I purchased). I’ve never seen a 120w solar panel, which seems it would be the only way to actually get 360w of solar panels attached if they each have to go to their own input plug.
Here is what I would do.
I would take the two 100W panels and connect them in parallel with an MC4 Y branch, then use the MC4 to Anderson adapter to connect it to the APP port on the Yeti. Note that you might have to rearrange the orientation of the Anderson connectors on the adapter, which is easy to do without any tools.
Then I would take the 160W panel and connect it to one of the 8mm ports with the MC4 to 8mm adapter. Even though it can only input 120W to the Yeti, the 160W panel is safe to use and the Yeti will regulate the wattage down to 120W. I doubt the 160W will generate even 120 watts since they usually sit around 100-115W, but there is nothing to worry about even if it does.
Let me know if you have any questions, hope I didn’t make it more confusing.
Thanks so much, that’s super helpful. So even though it says the Yeti can only take up to 120 per port, you think I should attach both 100w panels to each other and then to the AAP port? Is there a benefit to that versus attaching each 100w panel to a different port?
The 8mm can only handle up to 120W input, but the Anderson port can do up to 360W (30A). There is no benefit except for the fact that you don’t have to use three adapters and ports.
That’s great to know, thank you! Is it possible to also link the 160w panel to the 100w panels and into the Anderson port or are they not compatible?
You could do that with an Anderson to Anderson combiner, but if you mix a 100W panel with a 160W panel in parallel, I believe it is going to go by the lowest voltage rating, which comes from the 100W panel. That means that you would lose some of the voltage the 160W panel outputs. Therefore, I would connect the 100W panels in parallel, but the 160W on its own. It is hard to say what the voltage loss would be exactly without testing it myself but I would guess around 10-15%.
That makes sense, thank you!
I am new to solar and found your post very helpful. I purchased the GZ Yeti 1000 Lithium and planed to purchase 2 of the Boulder 200 solar panels (2). However, I am looking at the great solar panel choices you suggested as well
My question is whether or not there is a way to store the solar power in a bank of some type to use to power the generator more on demand. I have a full size refrigerator, full size freezer, sump pump and C-PAP to power. Also have the GZ Yeti 150. General use is for emergency back up should that need arise.
Will the Yeti Tank Expansion battery work with the 1000? Have also considered the Yeti 200 or 400 for additional help with emergency needs. The sump pump is the real issue in the end. Not sure how much power it will need. Goal Zero website is practically useless.
Thank you for any help you can provide. Really appreciate the detail you put into the post, as well as, the answers to all previous questions above.
Yes, the Yeti Expansion batteries work with the Yeti 1000, as long as you have the Yeti Link expansion module. One expansion battery will add another 1.2kWh (which will more than double your Yeti 1000 total battery capacity).
You might want to check how many watts your fridge, freezer, and pump use before you invest in more batteries though. Since some large refrigerators and freezers might struggle with a 1500W inverter. Maybe you’ve already tried to power your fridge/freezer and know the wattage.
I’d like to be sure that a single Yeti 1000 will power the things you need to be able to use before I recommend buying more batteries.
Let me know if you have any questions or how I can help further.
Thank you that is very helpful. We do need to check the watts on fridge, freezer and pump. Still trying to understand all the goal zero/relates solar info right now.
Regarding your RV battery ….do you use that as a backup solar storage source as a less expensive alternative to the Goal Zero battery backup item? If so, would you please explain how that works and what parts I would need. The Goal Zero back up battery unit requires so many extra expensive parts.
Thank you again. You have been patient and helpful.
I replied earlier, then my internet connection went down due to latest Microsoft update!!!
Thank you for so quickly answering my questions. If you would indulge me one additional question.
You mentioned that you also charge an RV battery. I believe using the parallel type connection to solar panel? Anyway, are you using that RV battery in place of a Goal Zero type expansion battery. I want to save money and if this is what you are making work I would appreciate all the particulars.
You are a great resource. I appreciate being able to ask questions of a real person with real product experience.
I did a quick check of my freezer and refrig watts….
Refig is: 60 HZ/ 1 Phase / 115V
Full Load AMP is 6.5
AMPS: 5/0 A
Volts: 115 VAC
Performance Range (last 1/3 of cycle) 115-140
I am not finding Watts noted on any literature or tags on these appliances.
Ok, based on those numbers the Yeti should be able to power both at the same time. Depending on how much they turn on, the battery won’t last very long though and would have to be recharged with solar during the day. You might also have to turn on and off the fridge/freezer at night if the Yeti battery is low. If the fridge and freezer use around 1300 watts at most when cooling, and the battery in the Yeti is 1045Wh, you can see how that won’t last long. Buying 400W of solar panels will definitely help with that though.
I do keep my RV batteries charged up, but only to run things in my camper like the lights, fans, furnace, etc. I don’t have an extra inverter to power 120V devices off of the trailer batteries.
To be honest, I would buy another Yeti or a smaller power station to run smaller devices like the CPAP. You could almost get another Yeti 1000 for the price of the Yeti Link and one expansion battery. The expansion batteries are really expensive for what they are since they’re not even lithium batteries.
What I would do if I were you is that I would try to run the fridge/freezer and other devices off of the Yeti for a day to get an understanding of how much power they use, how many days they would be able to last, and go from there. Maybe the Yeti 1000 will last a couple of days as long as you have 2-400W solar panels recharging it?
When it’s time to spend more money, I recommend prioritizing more battery capacity over solar panels though, so you can store more electricity. Whether it’s with another power station or a different type of setup (batteries+inverter+solar charge controller+solar panels).
Hope I am not making it confusing, trying to think of different ways to do it all. Let me know if you have any questions.
Thank you that is very helpful and not confusing at all. We have a Yeti 150 for CPAP/phones, etc. Yes, we planned to charge the yetis during the day and plug in the appliances overnight. The frig and freezer are quite a distance from each other, so plan is to alternate every other day between them. Without planning and minimal opening/closing, they should each have about 24-48 hours before they are desperate to be hooked up to a yeti.
I think you are also right on my $$ being better spent toward an expansion battery pack and/or additional yet instead of extra solar panels. I thought the GZ battery expansion packs they were overly expensive, but after looking at lithium battery prices that start at $800, maybe GZ is a bargain. Currently, we’re looking at the yeti 1500 instead. The expansion battery will have to wait until next year. Hopefully, the world will not completely fall apart before then!
I would love to consider the cheaper 12 V lead acid battery options, but the details to attach to solar differently then when attaching to the yeti has my head swimming. 🙂 I used to enjoy understanding and using all the complicated features and options. As I grow older, quick and simple with fewer parts is looking much more interesting. haha
Again, you are an exceptional source of helpful and usable info. Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions.
Be safe on your travels.
Yeah, the new Yeti 1500X is definitely not a bad choice if it can deliver on its promises. I have yet to test one myself, but as you say, lithium batteries cost a lot of money, and while people like to complain about Goal Zero’s pricing, it’s not that easy to make a similar one yourself with all of its features. It takes a lot of time and knowledge. Hopefully Goal Zero will release a lithium expansion pack soon too.
Thanks, AJ, let me know if you have any questions in the future.
Thank you Jesse. Sorry for delay in my reply. Elderly parents were in need of my attention.
I purchased the 1500X and have held off on the battery expansion tank for now. Will revisit in a month or so.
Your expertise and experience with these GZ models is priceless. Particularly for newbies trying to get the technology and connections down pat.
Take care and happy travels to you,
Thanks, AJ, I appreciate it.
Hi Jesse, first THANK YOU for sharing such great information for all of us!
Question about running a 200w single panel (under 22v) to a yeti 1000 lithium? Is that safe/ok to do?
This is the one I was looking to buy:
Newpowa 200 Watts Solar Panel Monocrystalline High efficiency
Thanks in advance!
Yes, that’s a great panel that should work with the Yeti 1000 without issues. Just make sure you plug it into the Anderson PowerPole and not the 8mm port.
Thanks Jesse! So I have a unit that has mppt charger in the upper right side of the unit so the directive you gave me to use the Anderson Powerpole is the black/red adapter receptacle correct? Also, with the mppt and the solar panel I mentioned I wanted to use above, does that change you recommendation at all? Thanks!
Correct, no that panel will be great with the MPPT charge controller as well!
Thanks Jesse, you rock!
I have a Yeti 500X that I use in my Jeep JLU. I run my Dometic frig off of it. Wanting to purchase a solar panel to charge the Yeti when not in motion and on extended trips where electricity is not available. Looking at the different options for the Yeti 500X, and I believe the Nomad 100 is probably the best bet for it. My question is, will it still preform if the solar panel is not fully extended. I’d like to use it almost as a sunshade for my windshield, but I think it may be too long. It most likely will not be used out in the elements for long if I ever do that. What are you thoughts?
If the panel is even a little bit shaded it won’t perform very well. Covering 10% of it will reduce the output a lot more than 10%.
One other question I forgot to ask. Since I have the mppt module for my goal zero 1000 model, can I charge my unit via the mppt module and associated 200w solar panel AND plugging the regular plug to the wall at the same time or will that damage/impact or degrade the unit? Thanks again in advance for your guidance!
You can use both at the same time without damaging anything. Goal Zero has told me that it’s fine to do so and I do it on a regular basis to charge the battery faster.
In your article you state Yeti 1250 “has one power pole charging port, supporting 16-48V, up to 20A (320W max), and one (actually, two) 8mm, supporting 16-48V, up to 10A (160W max)” In the manuals Goal Zero claims “200W max on the 8mm plug (and only 20v) and 250W max and the Anderson”, the other manual “160W max on the 8mm plug and 240W max and the Anderson plug.”
Can you confirm the ratings and tell me what happens if you go over, is it absolutely non-advisable?
I want to get the maximum amount of power from the sun into the Yeti in as little time as possible because I have a narrow patio.
Thanks, I changed it to two 8mm ports.
I see now that the manual says one thing and the Goal Zero page says another. I’m not sure which one to trust, but it doesn’t matter much as long as you’re connecting less than 400W of total solar and the total voltage is within 16-48V. I am not seeing anything about a 200W and 20V maximum anywhere.
So if the maximum input is 20A and 240W, I wouldn’t connect more than 400W of total solar. I would connect the panels in parallel with an MC4 Y branch (comes in different sizes depending on the number of panels). Four 12V 100W panels wired in parallel would output about 24A at 18V.
Goal Zero has told me that it’s fine to exceed the amperage to a certain point, but not the voltage, so it would be safe to do the above. I would definitely use the MC4 to Anderson adapter though and not use the 8mm ports.
You could connect most two 12V panels in series and stay below the 48V limit, but I don’t like recommending that unless I know exactly which panels you’re planning on buying.
Let me know if you have any questions.
I think the two 8mm can take 160W each and 240 in combined total.
The Anderson can take 240W (actually Goal Zero just told me in their tests it can take up to 320W).
So I would use 2 X 160W panels with 8mm adapters and one 320W – 420W panel with an Anderson connector. I’m thinking cheap third party panels here as the Amazon options are too heavy to ship internationally.
Here’s a great video of a guy inputting 1000W into his Goal Zero yeti lithium 1000 (because it has so many inputs)
Hi Kevin, thanks for sharing!
Nice, it would be great to hear how that works out for you. I’ve been curious about the differences between 1000 and 1250 in terms of the maximum solar input.
Will this work with my Yeti 1000. https://amzn.to/37w2y2A
And if so what would i need to connect it. Thanks
Based on the description, yes it’s compatible and it even includes an 8mm connector that can be used with the Yeti 1000.
The problem is that the 8mm ports can only use 120W of the input on the Yeti 1000, therefore I would get a SAE to Anderson adapter (click to view on Amazon), since the Anderson input can handle more than 300W input. Note that you might have to rearrange the orientation of the Anderson connectors on the adapter. You also need to make sure that the polarity is correct (positive to red, negative to black).
Remember to connect the panel directly to the Yeti, without the charge controller that’s included with the panel.
Thanks for the advice
Thanks for all the info here! Its great.
I’ve got a 1500x coming on the way, And I’m trying to decide if I’m going to run one or two 170w merlin panels. I’m pretty new to this and I see the connector for running panels in parallel, but I don’t see how to run in series and what sort of connectors I need.
Tech specs of panel:
Vmp: 19.79 Volts
Imp: 8.59 Amps
Voc: 23.9 Volts
Isc: 9.21 Amps
Also what kind of port on the 1500x is the one capable of taking that input? The 8mm or the other High Power port?
Charging port (input, 8mm): 14-50V, up to 10A (150W max) (front face/under lid)
High Power charging port (input): 14-50V, up to 50A (600W max)
You can connect two of those panels in series since the total VMP will be below 50V (19.79*2=39.58V).
Simply take the positive MC4 male connector from the first panel and connect it to the negative MC4 female connector on the second panel, then connect the two MC4 connectors (one from each panel) to the MC4 to Anderson adapter. You’re going to have to change the orientation of the connectors on the adapter.
You could also connect them in parallel if you want to add a third panel but I would do it in series with two panels since more connections equal worse efficiency.
I would definitely connect them to the Anderson port (High Power port) since you’re going to exceed the 150W. Both can handle it, but you don’t want any electricity to go to waste.
You should see 250-280W input on the Yeti screen with those two panels wired in series.
Let me know if you have any questions.
I have a Goal Zero Yeti 1000, and wanting to incorporate solar. I live in my van full time at times when working, so stealth is a big deal for me. I’m really looking at the Boulder 200 briefcase, or the Renogy 175 watt 12V flexible-assuming it would work since it’s under 24v!?…wondering if the flexible panels are still good quality, and curious if both could be mounted on the roof while traveling? And do you know if I’d need any extras for setup with the Renogy? Thanks!!!
There are pros and cons to both of the ways you mention.
The briefcase is great because it’s portable and adjustable so you can move it during the day and angle it towards the sun, which will increase the charging speed a lot. But that means more work for you.
With a panel mounted on the top of your van you won’t have to adjust anything, but you’re going to miss out on those early and late sun hours. The panel on the roof is definitely the most stealthy way.
So the question is how much power you need to use everyday. If you only use 300 watt-hours (30% of your Yeti) per day, a panel on the roof would work, but if you use the full 1000Wh every single day, I would get a portable briefcase.
The Renogy panel could be mounted on your roof permanently and stay there during travel, the Briefcase cannot.
The Boulder plugs straight into the Yeti without any additional cables. The Renogy panel would need the MC4 to Anderson adapter, possibly with some MC4 extension cables between the panel and the adapter to reach the inside of your van.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks so much for the quick reply! I’ve been doing a lot more poking around with your reviews/information, and have learned a lot-thanks for such an informative site! I’m going to be a full time student, so most of the time, my minivan will be sitting in a parking lot- which has made me decide on rooftop panels. That being said, after more research, I’m a little leery of the flexible panels after reading so many negative things about them…so going with rigid panels. Pretty sure I’ve decided on the HQST panels.
So here are my newest questions..(you’re amazing- I’ve yet to find anyone to talk to that will give me the kind of information you are! much appreciated!)
1. Any pros/cons about using 2 100 watt panels instead of 1 190watt panel? (besides the watt difference)
2. Assuming I still need the MC4 to Anderson adapter-I’m also assuming I’d need to buy something extra for the parallel connection with 2 panels? (the whole gauge and width thing is way over my head)
*also may get help with building my own solar setup with batteries/ inverter/etc. once the Yeti bites the dust-would that make a difference in what you’d suggest? (really not sure how long these Yeti’s last-mine’s been plugged in since I haven’t used it for awhile-try to periodically)
3. Do you have any idea how much clearance these panels need underneath? I saw a youtube video of panels installed right into the already existing roof rack that I have-with the panels barely visible…which still keeps it quite stealthy. No problems mentioned with the function-except that the output was a little higher when driving on the highway (probably due to less heat buildup)
Thanks again for everything!
Thanks, I appreciate it! Yeah, I would stick with rigid panels.
1. No major pros or cons, and they should perform similarly. If you’re in the middle of nowhere and one panel stops working it’s nice to have two instead of one, but I would go with whatever is the easiest to install/fit on the roof of your van.
2. Yeah, you would need the MC4 Y branch if you go with two 100W panels. If you need MC4 extension cables, either 10 or 12 gauge would be fine for 200W or 190W, but I recommend 10 gauge for better efficiency. If you do end up building your own solar setup you can use the same panels and they would be great for that.
3. Mine are installed with less than an inch of clearance and have worked great for almost two years now. Just make sure the roof rack can handle it and you’ll be fine!
Also, if you don’t have it yet I would definitely buy the Yeti MPPT charge controller which will increase the efficiency of your panels. Especially since your panels are going to be mounted flat on the roof.
Let me know if I missed something or if you have any more questions.
I have a Yeti 1500x I’ve been using for power outage backup at home and for camper van with portable folding 100W solar panel. Looking to install a roof rack mounted single 200W panel to keep things simple. Would you go with a 12V or 24V solar panel? NEWPOWA has new 210W solar panels available in both voltages.
Either would work, but I would go with 24V for two reasons. First reason is the fact that you won’t have to pay as much for extension cables since the amperage of a 24V panel is lower, so you can get a higher gauge. Second reason is slightly better efficiency.
The downside is that you would have to do a parallel connection instead of series if you decide to buy another panel.
I have a GZ yeti 500x and (2)100w renogy solar panels 12 v. I have the adapters to connect in parallel and a 8mm input connector. What should I do? Can I use both panels?
Yes, you can connect both panels to the MC4 Y branch and then to the MC4 to 8mm adapter. It’s safe to connect them to the Yeti 500X.
I have a Yeti 1500x and I’m searching for a compatible portable foldable solar panel. I see that you are recommending the Rockpals 100W panel. Looking at their website they have a 2020 version – Rockpals 100W Portable Solar Panel 02 which has an Anderson Connector, however; their website also states not compatible with Yeti 200x/500x/1000x. I’ve called and emailed many times with no response which isn’t a good sign but I do like the products they are offering. Any thoughts on if you think this would be compatible with Yeti 1500x? If not, have you come across any alternatives to the Rockpals foldable panels? Thanks for any help!
Hmm, I wonder if it’s because of the orientation of the Anderson connectors. Looks like it has an 8mm connector too, which means it should work with the 1500X.
I recently reviewed the Itehil 100W panel (click to view on Amazon) and you can find my review here. It’s compatible due to the 8mm connector, and very similar to the Rockpals 100W although it doesn’t come with Anderson connectors.
I have a Yeti 1400 Lithium.
I bought the Renogy 100 watt panels and some BTSKY 1 Pair Y Branch Connector Parallel Adapter Wire Plug Tool Kit for Solar Panel(F/F/F/M and M/M/M/F). I took 3 panels and ran them parallel and plugged into the 3rd party port. when I did that I was getting 175 watts.
In addition i had previously purchased the GoalZero 30 watt x4 panels. while the 3rd party panels were plugged in, I plugged in the Goalzero panels into the Goalzero input and the Watts increase to 250w (240 is the max, i think). The Goalzero started at 92% charged and when I started to tryout other options the charge was at 96%. I noticed the same set up my Watts had dropped to about 105w (this was at noon, all within 20 mins and the sky was clear the entire time). When the watts dropped I added 3 more Renogy panels (3 +3) and there really was not a change. I then tested the following alone:
Goalzero panels (75w)
(3×1 parallel)Renogy panels (108-175W)
(3×2 parallel) Renogy Panels (80-130w)
1 – I have read in 2 places that you can use both inputs at the same time, I have also read that you cannot use both inputs at the same time.
2- can I do a 3×2 parallel? basically take 3 panels in parallel x 2 and connect them with an additional BTSKY 1 Pair Y Branch Connector Parallel Adapter Wire Plug (When I did this it did not see it did anything)
3 – does the charging change as the Goalzero becomes full? I.e. if I am already at a 90% charge will it differ compared to a 30% charge starting point?
On another note, your report you provided was extremely helpful and was an excellent resource! Thank you!
Hi, thanks for your comment.
1. The Yeti 1400 can be charged using several inputs at the same time. The new large X models cannot.
2. No, I wouldn’t do that. I recommend buying the Goal Zero MPPT module (click to view on Amazon) and plugging your Renogy panels into the Anderson Input on it. Then connecting the Goal Zero panels to either the MPPT or the built-in charge controller, just test both and see which one increases the input the most when the battery is below 80%.
3. Yep, it’s what’s referred to as the stadium effect. Goal Zero has written about it here. It’s totally normal.
Hello, I’m purchasing the Yeti Goal Zero 1000 and want to buy the Renogy panel 200 watt 12 v. Could I use this panel and maybe some 100 watt panels with it also by Renogy?
Hi, do you mean the Yeti 1000 or the newer Yeti 1000X? The new Yeti 1000X can only take a charge from one input at once, so then it’s better to get the exact same panel if you want to connect two together. You don’t necessarily need too, but it will be more efficient than mixing panels.
On the Yeti 1000, several inputs can be used at the same time, so then it’s not as important.
To answer the question, yes you can.
Yes I’m getting the Yeti 1000 Core, so I could get up to 2- 2000 watt solar panels if I wanted to?
Ah gotcha, yes then you can connect two 200W panels together with an MC4 Y branch (click to view on Amazon) before connecting them to the Yeti 1000 Core with an MC4 to Anderson adapter. Just change the orientation of the adapter.
You might also want to add some MC4 extension cables between the Y branch and the Anderson adapter, I currently recommend the Geosiry Twin MC4 extension cables due to the sheath that protects and keeps the cables together.
You could also mix a 200W with a 100W in parallel, but then the 200W panel would suffer since it would be forced to match the voltage of the 100W panel. If you did it in series, it would be even worse.
Ok cool, thanks for the help!
Hi Jesse – Can you confirm if the Renogy panels are compatible with the 1000x model?
Yes, they are compatible.
Hi Jesse, thanks so much for an informative article! One question: I live in Hawaii and have a Yeti 6000X but need compatible solar panels. Because of shippings restrictions, my options are limited. I see that Costco here sells Massimo 100W Solar Panel With 10 AMP Charge Controller and I wonder if those would be compatible. I didn’t see this brand reviewed in your list. I wonder if you’d taken a look at it as an option. Also, how would I know from the specs if I’d need an additional adaptor? Appreciate any advice before I purchase them. Mahalo!
The Massimo panel is technically compatible, but you would have to use the panel without the included charge controller. You would also have to install MC4 or Anderson Powerpole connectors on the bare wires from the panel.
Are there any online retailers that can ship to you that I can take a look at?
Thanks Jesse, does the charge controller need to be disconnected or does it comes separate and I would just not attach it? The problem here is that because the panels are glass, most online sites won’t ship to hawaii. Costco does it’s own shipping, but they only carry the one brand. They also sell a limited GoalZero power station, but only the smaller unit, and they won’t sell the foldable solar panels separately. Same with HPM, a retailer here. Frustrating, so far I can only find the Massimo panels being sold separately.
Ok, I understand. It looks like the charge controller isn’t preinstalled, but it would be easy to disconnect even if it was.
Oh, I found a way to get 200W Renogy panels. Would I be okay putting two 200W panels together on the Yeti 6000X? If I’m reading your chart correctly, they don’t need the Additional Adaptor. Is that correct? Mahalo and Aloha
Ok that’s awesome, that would be a lot better. Yes, you could do a series connection if the combined voltage of the panels is less than 50V. If not, you’re going to have to do a parallel connection with the MC4 Y branch.
The Renogy 200W panels I have looked at have a VMP rating around 20-23V, so two in series would work with the Yeti 6000X. But you should check the specifications of the specific model you’re looking at.
Either way, you’re going to need an MC4 to Anderson adapter to connect the panel(s) to the Yeti.
Oh, excellent. Thanks so much, Jesse. Last question, do you recommend the Yeti Lithium MPPT Solar Charging Optimization Module for this setup, or no need?
No, there is no need for that. The MPPT charge controller in the Yeti is better.
Thank you for the in-depth info. I appreciate how much time and effort is required to create rich content like this. I currently have a roof-mounted 100w Renogy panel connected to a Yeti 1500x. I’m going to add a 100w Renogy suitcase. I understand I can/should wire these in series. Can you advise the length/gauge of wire for the suitcase? I can’t get the Renogy calculator to work.
Is the plan to have the suitcase on the ground and connecting it in series to the panel on the roof? I would go with at least 10 gauge and try to keep it under 20 ft. If you need 20-30 ft, go with 8 gauge.
Hello Jesse. I don’t actually have a question, I am just upgrading my system and came across your website and wound up reading through everything. Great education. Thanks for taking the time to do this stuff.
Thank you, Adam!