Reasons Black & Grey RV Holding Tanks Clog
You’ve just pulled into the dump station, ready to empty your RV holding tanks, and… nothing happens. Or maybe just a trickle comes out when you were expecting a flow. Trust me, you’re definitely not the only one who’s dealt with this headache.
Clogged holding tanks plague RV owners everywhere, especially folks who just bought a used camper or are new to the whole dumping routine.
Nine times out of ten, your tank refuses to drain because something’s blocking the way or the previous owner didn’t stay on top of maintenance. Maybe debris got lodged somewhere it shouldn’t be. Perhaps waste dried up and turned rock-hard inside the tank (yeah, it happens).
Whatever the culprit, we’re about to dig into why these clogs happen and exactly how to fix them, whether you’re troubleshooting in your driveway or sweating it out at a busy dump station with a line of RVs behind you.
3 Main RV Tank Clog Causes
- Broken Gate Valve or T-Handle
- Inorganic Blockage (flushable wipes, foreign objects, things like that)
- Organic Blockage (valve was left open for a long time, causing things to dry and harden, creating a blockage)
How To Unclog An RV Black Tank
So your RV black tank won’t drain? Take a deep breath, this happens to the best of us. The good news is that most clogs aren’t nearly as bad as they seem.
I’m going to walk you through several fixes, starting with the simple stuff you can try right now, then working up to the bigger guns if your tank’s being stubborn.
1. Start with the Quick Checks
Make Sure the Gate Valve is Open
This might sound obvious, but hear me out. When you pull that T-handle, you should feel some resistance, like you’re actually moving something. If it slides around loosely, chances are the handle broke off from the valve mechanism inside.
Grab some pliers and try manually opening the valve where the handle connects. If waste suddenly starts flowing, we’ve found the problem.
Try a Quick Back Flush
Most of the time, you’re dealing with a soft clog, just toilet paper and waste that’s gotten jammed up. Your best bet here is pushing water backwards through your sewer connection. Something like the Camco Rhino Blaster Pro (click to view on Amazon) makes this super easy. Hook it up to your sewer outlet and blast water back into the tank to break things loose.
No rinser handy? While your black tank valve is open, crack open your grey tank for just a few seconds. Sometimes that grey water will push back into the black tank and knock the clog free. Just be ready to close it quick.
Check the Roof Vent
If your tank’s draining but it’s slow and it doesn’t seem totally blocked, climb up and check your vent pipe. Pull off that vent cap and look inside. I’ve seen everything from leaves and dirt to full-blown wasp nests blocking these things.
Clear out whatever’s in there, then run a garden hose down the vent to make sure air can flow freely again. Without proper ventilation, your waste won’t drain properly even if nothing’s blocking the pipe.
A really fast way to check this would be to flush the toilet while the black tank is draining. That will break the air lock and let you know if it’s a venting issue.
2. Medium Effort Fixes
Dump a Bucket of Water Down the Toilet
If you’re getting some drainage but not much, try this: Fill up a 5-gallon bucket and dump the whole thing down your toilet in one go. The sudden rush of water can blast through whatever’s hanging on in there.
Just make sure your tank isn’t completely full first, the last thing you need is sewage coming out of the toilet instead of the RV sewer hose.
Use Hot Water and Tank Treatment
When flushing alone doesn’t cut it, it’s time to bring in the big guns. Fill a bucket with the hottest water you can get (careful not to crack your toilet), add some dish soap or a quality holding tank treatment like Happy Campers Organic RV Tank Treatment (click to view on Amazon), and pour it all down.
Close up the valve and let that mixture work its magic for a few hours. The heat softens everything up while the soap or treatment breaks down the gunk.
The Drive-Around Method
After you’ve added that hot water and treatment, take your RV for a spin around the neighborhood. All that sloshing and movement helps the mixture reach every corner of your tank and really break things up.
I’ve seen this work wonders on used trailers where who-knows-what has been sitting in those tanks. When you get back, try dumping again.
3. Last-Resort Methods
Use a Drain Snake
Still stuck? Time to get your hands dirty (figuratively, hopefully). Grab a short toilet auger or drain snake. Take a cheap sewer hose you don’t mind sacrificing, drill a small hole near the connector end, and carefully feed the snake through.
Work it in gently until you feel it hit the clog, then twist and push until things break free. Once sewage starts flowing, let some drain out to make sure you’ve really cleared it, then close everything up and switch to a clean hose for the rest.
Call the Professionals
Sometimes you just need to wave the white flag. Local porta potty or septic companies deal with this stuff daily and have vacuum trucks that can suck out even the nastiest clogs. They’ve seen it all and won’t judge.
If you can’t find a septic service, most RV repair shops or even some plumbers have the equipment to help you out. Yes, it costs money, but it beats dealing with a backed-up black tank on your vacation.
How To Unclog An RV Grey Tank
RV grey tanks might not get clogged as often as black tanks, but when they do, it’s usually thanks to a nasty combination of grease, soap scum, and food bits that shouldn’t have gone down the drain in the first place. Fixing a grey tank clog is typically easier than dealing with black tank issues, and you can use pretty much the same tricks.
First things first, make sure that valve is actually open and working. Give the handle a pull and feel for resistance. If it’s moving but nothing’s happening, you’ve got a clog on your hands.
Next you can try opening both your grey and black tank valves at the same time for just a moment. The pressure difference can sometimes knock things loose. Only do this after you’ve already emptied and cleaned your black tank. Nobody wants that kind of cross-contamination situation.
Now for the hot water treatment. Grab a couple buckets of the hottest water you can manage and mix in a generous squirt of dish soap. Pour this mixture down your sinks and shower drain, then walk away. Let that soapy brew sit in there for a few hours, it needs time to work on all that built-up gunk.
Want to speed things up? Take your RV for a quick drive around the block. All that sloshing around can really help break things loose. I’ve cleared plenty of stubborn clogs this way.
Last resort you can snake the grey tank just like you would the black tank. If there’s a blockage, odds are it’s right next to the gate valve and shouldn’t be too hard to reach with a short snake.
To Wrap it Up
Wrestling with a clogged RV tank ranks pretty low on anyone’s list of camping highlights. But practically every RVer deals with this sooner or later. It’s like a weird rite of passage nobody talks about around the campfire. The good news? Most blockages aren’t the disaster they seem like in the moment. With some patience, water, and maybe a few choice words muttered under your breath, you’ll get things flowing again.
Here’s a tip for anyone who just picked up a used RV: Before you head out on that maiden voyage, fill up the RV holding tanks with fresh water and some treatment, let them soak overnight, then dump them.
I know it seems like extra work, but trust me on this one. You’ll figure out any quirks in the system and flush out whatever nastiness the previous owner left behind (and there’s always something). Better to discover issues near home than at a packed campground with a line of RVs waiting behind you.
The secret to avoiding future headaches really isn’t that complicated. Keep the valves closed until dumping time, no matter how convenient it seems to leave them open. Use plenty of water in your tanks (dry waste is stubborn waste). And throw in some quality holding tank treatment after each trip. You can read more about proper RV holding tank maintenance in this article here.
A clogged RV black tank or the idea of dealing with a clog might make you want to give up on RV camping, but once you get the hang of it, this stuff becomes second nature. And when the system’s running smoothly, you can forget about it and focus on the parts of RVing that make it all feel worth it in the end.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why won’t my RV black tank drain?
Usually you’re dealing with a clog right at the valve opening, toilet paper and waste love to pile up there and cause trouble. Sometimes the gate valve itself breaks (you’ll know because the handle moves too easily). Or maybe your vent pipe got clogged up with leaves or a wasp nest, which kills the airflow you need for drainage. If you leave that valve open while hooked up, all the liquid drains out but the solids stay behind and turn into concrete.
All of these are common reasons why your RV black tank isn’t draining. Good news is most issues can be fixed with a little tank treatment, lots of water, and time to soak.
Can I use a plunger to unclog an RV toilet or tank?
A plunger works great if something’s stuck in the toilet bowl itself, go ahead and plunge away. But if the clog’s deeper down in the tank or hiding near the valve? That plunger’s not going to do much.
For deeper clogs, you’ll need to break out the tank rinser or back flush attachment. Or go with the hot water and holding tank treatment method.
Is it safe to use household drain cleaners?
No. Drano, Liquid-Plumr, and all those harsh chemicals you use at home will eat right through your RV’s seals and melt the plastic plumbing. Save yourself an expensive repair bill and stick with RV-safe cleaners and holding tank treatments made specifically for waste tanks. They work just as well without destroying your system.
How can I tell if my RV’s vent pipe is clogged?
A few telltale signs give this away. Your tank drains at a trickle instead of a full rush. You hear weird gurgling sounds when you flush. Or my personal favorite, air bubbles come burping up through the toilet bowl. When you see any of these, head up to the roof, pop off that vent cap, and take a look. Nine times out of ten, you’ll find leaves, dirt, or some critter’s home blocking things up. Run a garden hose down there to blast it clear.
What’s the best way to prevent black and grey tank clogs?
Always keep a good amount of water in your tanks, dry waste is your enemy. Buy the RV-safe toilet paper (yes, it matters). Wait until your tank’s at least halfway full before dumping, I know it’s tempting to dump early, but don’t.
Toss in some tank treatment after each trip. And if you really want to stay ahead of problems, give both tanks a thorough rinse when you get home. Do these things religiously and you’ll spend way less time dealing with clogs and way more time actually enjoying your RV.
2 tips from my RV days….
1. Always carry spare valves….they only break when you are no where near an RV shop…
2. I made a sprayer for the tanks from a female hose end epoxyed to a length of PVC sprinkler pie with a 360 degree sprinkler head on it….connected to a hose, I could stick it down through the toilet, or in through the drain pipe and and keep the inside of the tank clean….
Great tips, Timothy. Thanks for leaving a comment. The DIY black tank sprayer sounds awesome.
I’m hoping someone can help me. I just recently bought a used 2008 carriage Domani, I do plan on living in this as my permanent home and waiting for an above ground septic portable tank to be delivered so we can hook it up but my problem is this, anytime I push the button on the RV to flush my black water tank nothing happens. It doesn’t even light up red to indicate that it is on like the gray water tank does. We’re trying to drain the black water tank but have push the button to turn it off now and nothing happens. I have watched numerous videos and everybody is talking about a switch or valve that you would have to turn on but for the life of me we cannot find this switch or that. Nowhere. Help please. Thank you
Hi Dottie,
There could be a second switch somewhere between the gate valve and the main switch but it sounds like you may have blown a fuse.
Drain Master electric gate valves usually have a 5 amp glass fuse (click to view on Amazon) somewhere between the switch and the battery. It’s probably closer to the battery so I would start looking there first.
It could also be that the plug between the valve and the switch has come loose. It should be somewhere behind the switch. When you find it try pushing it together to see if that helps connect it better.
This article solved my black tank mystery. On my first trip out with my brand new Jayco 28RL, I was attempting to empty the black tank, then the grey. I pulled the black tank lever and there was not much of a flow going through the clear elbow tube. (The black tank was over 3/4 full and should have been gushing out). After a short wave of panic I pulled one of the grey tank levers which seemed to open up the dam. I was relieved yet mystified why this happened after reviewing tons of videos on how to empty the tanks and in which order.
I found your article which answered many questions.
Thank you very much for posting the article.
No problem Mac, thanks so much for the comment.
I’m glad you were able to get things working the way they should. Enjoy that new Jayco!
I believe I have a broken valve. I have a 2018 Riverstone 39FKTH & the black tank valve was stiff & we used product dealer suggested & I back flushed. Been ok & then BAM! It’s like the handle isn’t pulling valve open.
Sounds like the part connecting the gate valve and the handle may have come loose. You will need to follow the black tank pipe and find where the gate valve is to see if something got disconnected.
It could also be that flushing out the black tank and using some chemicals may have helped break up something that was on the inside of the valve. Normally they are pretty easy to open and close and you may have just gotten rid of whatever was making the valve stiff.
Thanx. That’s what I figured. I’m now in the process of removing under belly & insulation,ugh. It’s only 109* here today lol
I have a 2001 nomad travel trailer. .my buttons dont say black water it just says solids and i have it hooked up at a camp ground and the solids will only go down 2 out of the 4 lights. And when i look down my toilet i can see all this brown liquid. I have both valves opened up outside since im connected to the campground. I am on a fixed income. Is there anything i can do that is cheap to get this to empty all the way? Also im not sure how to get back to this if anyone replies.
Hi Britnee,
Your black tank is most likely almost empty. A lot of the time the sensors on RV holding tanks will get blocked by something and they will display full or partly full even when not. My bet is that your black tank isn’t emptying all of the way because you are sitting either a little to one side or exactly level. Lots of RVs require you to be up higher on the opposite side of the drain to fully empty the tanks.
I don’t recommend having the grey and black tank valves open at all times even when connected to a sewer at a campground. This allows for smells from the sewer to get into the RV through the drains. It’s also better for the black tank if it has at least 5 gallons of water in it at all times. When we stay at RV parks with hook ups we leave the sewer hose connected but only open the gate valves to drain the tanks when they get full. This helps prevent clogs and it will help the black tank drain better.
When i look down my toilet i see liquid and it looks as if its full? There seems to still be a lit of sewage in there. I dont know if i have some type of clog. When i move i can hear the sewage moving. So i dont know if i should buy something to eat away the toilet paper and other stuff if there?
Yes, you should always be using chemicals inside your black tank to break down toilet paper and solids. That’s part of the reason you shouldn’t have it open all of the time.
I recommend getting the Happy Campers Holding Tank Treatment (click to view on Amazon). It’s one of the best holding tank treatments out there but you can also get other brands at local stores that are better than nothing.
You may have a clog now that could be fixed by putting chemicals into the black tank and waiting a few days. Another good product to help break up clogs is the Camco holding tank rinser (click to view on Amazon). You attach it between the sewer outlet and your RV sewer hose, then using a regular garden hose you use it to shoot water into the black tank which will help break up whatever is blocking it.
Using the Camco tank rinser and chemical should help get your black tank draining again. Once you get it drained you should close it, put a few gallons of fresh water in it, add black tank chemical, and only dump it when it’s full. This should help prevent any clogs in the future.
I have a broken gate valve. Everything says to empty gray tank to replace gate valve. How do I do that when I can’t get it open
Hi William,
Have you tried to open the gate valve with pliers? Sometimes you can still get a grip on part of the gate and work it open.
If opening it isn’t possible you may have to start unscrewing the gate valve and use some buckets to catch what drains out of the grey tank until it’s empty. It’s going to be a long process but it may be the only way. At least it’s not the black tank.
Hello, I am also having the issue Britney is having. I bought chemicals and waited for days. Nothing. Can you recommend a mobile person in the San Diego California area I could call?
Jessica
Hi Jessica,
If you don’t think you can try and snake the tank yourself you can always call a porta potty company, they normally have the resources required to remove waste from an RV holding tank. A plumber is another option but they might end up costing more.
My gray tank won’t empty my black tank does i open gray tank nothing g comes out but under the back of rv the belly us so swollen looks like it’s gonna burst water has dripped underneath it all summer long ut drips worse right after I have done dishes I own a 88 kountry star don’t know what to do
Hi Terri,
When it comes to the grey tank there isn’t normally a lot that can clog the outlet. Is the gate valve opening when you pull the lever or is it possibly broken? If it seems like it’s broken and not opening you may be able to use pliers to grip the valve part directly and get it to open. You can also just undo the bolts around the vavle to release at least some of the water to help relieve the pressure on the tank.
You can also try opening the valve and sticking something like a hose up the pipe to see if you can clear what’s possibly blocking it.
I think I’ve had every problem that your readers have all had and have always been helped by reading blogs like yours. One of the readers above had a simple fix for a problem I’ve had all summer. I haven’t been able to completely empty my black tank all year and it was because where I dump is not level. DUH! I didn’t change spots because it’s convenient but what I now do is drive up on about 4 inches of blocks to tip the trailer in the other direction! It’s now empty as empty can be.
We’ve had the exact same issue, I don’t know why dumps aren’t made to be level or lean toward the drain side.
Glad this post and comments were helpful!
nothing is coming out when i try to empty black and grey tanks had the black valve replaced about a month ago looked up train pipe with flash light pipe is closed off only a small trickle of clear water is trickling out grey handle is a bit stiff. would this indicate that the grey valve is broken if so how can I remove it
Hi Wayne,
If the handle is stiff it sounds like the cable is binding somewhere or the gate valve is gummed up.
Follow the cable that leads from the gray tank handle to the gate valve and make sure nothing is tied up or blocking the cable from working.
You may need to access the gate valve and use pliers or something to get the valve to open so you can drain the tank. Then once it’s drained you can use drain valve lubricant (click to view on Amazon) to try and loosen it up.
It’s strange that the black tank isn’t emptying even though the valve was replaced recently. Are you sure there’s not something blocking both of the tanks in the spot where they meet in the main pipe?
For black or gray tanks, pour 1/2 to 1 cup of Cascade liquid gel dishwashing detergent down the toilet or kitchen sink drain, followed with a kettle full of boiling water. Let sit for 10 minutes. Add 5 gallons of water to the tank and then take your rv for a good drive all over town to let that tank’s contents slosh around the plumbing, then go home and drain, followed by rinsing the tank out twice. This worke every time for me. I rarely have any issues, live in my housecar full-time, never use those tank chemicals, use regular toilet paper and do not get poop pyramids in the tank. I only empty the tanks when they are full, black, then gray to clear out the sewer pipe. After emptying the tanks, In do add a few gallons of fresh water to the black tank before using it as this helps avoid buildups of solids. I hope this helps somebody. Cheers!
I like the Cascade detergent idea. Thanks for sharing!