What Is The Best RV AC Unit?
RV air conditioners have come a long way over the years, and if yours is starting to struggle in the summer heat, it’s probably time to think about an upgrade.
Brands like Dometic, Airxcel/Coleman, and Advent have stepped up their game with units that are smaller, quieter, and way more efficient than what most of us grew up with.
Tip
Power an RV AC using a smaller generator using a RV Soft Start Kit (click to view on Amazon)
One of the best parts? A lot of today’s RV ACs fit right into standard vent covers, so you don’t have to mess with ducts at all. That makes it a whole lot easier to toss an extra AC into your travel trailer’s bedroom, or kit out a van or a converted bus without a big headache.
I dug into the top 15,000 and 13,500 BTU units out there, both low-profile and standard, and looked at options that’ll work for ducted and non-ducted setups, whether you’re in an RV, van, trailer, or even a school bus conversion.
- Best Overall: Dometic FreshJet Series 3 | #1_Dometic_FreshJet_3_Series_RV_Air_Conditioner | Lighter, quieter, and more efficient than the Brisk II it replaces, with rock-solid nationwide parts support. | View on Amazon
- Least Wind Resistance: Dometic Penguin II Low Profile RV AC | #2_Dometic_Penguin_II_Low_Profile_RV_AC | A 10-inch low-profile design that saves on fuel and clears low overhangs. | View on Amazon
- Most Innovative: Furrion Chill Cube 18K | #6_Furrion_Chill_Cube_18k_BTU_RV_AC | Variable speed tech delivers quiet, efficient cooling and runs on a 2,000-watt generator without a soft start. | View on Amazon
| Model | Available Sizes | 13,500 Power Usage | 13,500 Weight | 15,000 Power Usage | 15,000 Weight | Link | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
 | Dometic FreshJet 3 Series | 13,500 & 15,000 | Startup: 4,000W Running: 1,700W | 64 lbs | Startup: 4,400W Running: 1,700W | 66 lbs | Amazon |
 | Dometic Penguin II (low profile) | 13,500 & 15,000 | Startup: 4,000W Running: 1,700W | 99 lbs | Startup: 4,400W Running: 1,800W | 110 lbs | Amazon |
 | Coleman Mach | 13,500 & 15,000 | Startup: 3,500W Running: 1,700W | 90 lbs | Startup: 3,900W Running: 1,800W | 90 lbs | Amazon |
 | ASA Electronics Advent Air | 13,500 & 15,000 | Startup: 3,000W Running: 1,500W | 69 lbs | Startup: 4,000W Running: 1,800W | 69 lbs | Amazon |
 | Furrion Chill HE | 13,500 & 15,500 | Startup: 3,500W Running: 1,450W | 82 lbs | Startup: 3,800W Running: 1,700W | 84 lbs | Amazon |
 | Furrion Chill Cube | 18,000 | n/a | n/a | Startup: 1,400W Running: 1,400W | 72 lbs | Amazon |
Best RV AC Units Reviews & Info
1. Dometic FreshJet 3 Series RV Air Conditioner
Key Features
- Direct replacement for the Brisk II: installs the same way and is backward-compatible with existing controls.
- Available in 13,500 BTU and 15,000 BTU versions that fit a standard 14″x14″ roof opening.
- 15% more airflow and 13% more cooling than the older Brisk II.
- 4 dB quieter than its predecessor, which feels like about half the noise.
- Lightweight build at just 64 lbs (13,500 BTU) or 66 lbs (15,000 BTU).
- E-coated evaporator coils for better corrosion resistance and a longer lifespan.
- 28% less refrigerant than previous models for a greener footprint.
- Power draw of 3,959W (13,500 BTU) or 4,399W (15,000 BTU) on 120V AC.
- Minimum 3.5 kW generator, or as small as 2,000W with the .
- Ducted and non-ducted compatible, though the interior assembly and thermostat are sold separately.
Summary
If you’re replacing a worn-out Brisk II or just want to upgrade an older RV AC, the Dometic FreshJet 3 Series is a fantastsic pick. It’s Dometic’s direct replacement for the Brisk II, so the install is almost plug-and-play if you already have the right air return and controls.
You’re getting more airflow, better cooling, quieter operation, and the weight drop (down to 64 lbs on the 13,500 BTU model) makes it way easier to wrestle onto the roof.
The modern shroud looks clean too, with hidden screws and no visible vent holes, which makes this a very nice looking RV AC upgrade.
Pros
- Direct, plug-and-play swap for the Brisk II.
- Lightest unit in this review at 64 lbs (13,500 BTU).
- Quieter operation, which is huge if you sleep under the AC.
- Works with a 2,000W generator when paired with the Dometic SmartStart.
- Fits the standard 14″x14″ roof vent opening.
- Ducted and non-ducted setups both supported.
Cons
- Cool-only, no heat version currently available.
- Interior assembly and thermostat are sold separately.
- 15,000 BTU pulls nearly 4,400W, so you still need solid power without a soft start.
2. Dometic Penguin II Low Profile RV AC
Key Features
- Low-profile design that sits just 10 inches tall once installed for better aerodynamics and less wind drag.
- Lightweight EPP foam housing that cuts weight and improves cooling efficiency at the same time.
- Available in 13,500 BTU and 15,000 BTU versions that both fit the standard 14″x14″ roof vent opening.
- Eco-friendly R410A refrigerant that pulls heat more efficiently and is easier on the environment.
- Rib-reinforced base pan built to hold up through rough roads and rough weather.
- High-performance motor and fan pushing 320 CFM (13,500 BTU) or 310 CFM (15,000 BTU) on high.
- Power draw of 3,953 start-up / 1,731 running watts on the 13,500 BTU, and 4,392 start-up / 1,762 running watts on the 15,000 BTU.
- Polar white or black on the 13,500 BTU model, which is non-ducted only.
- 15,000 BTU works with ducted and non-ducted setups and needs the Dometic Duo Therm Comfort Control 2 for ducted installs.
- Cool-only unit compatible with CCC2 or CT thermostats (single or multi-zone), with no pre-installed controls.
Summary
The Dometic Penguin II is basically the FreshJet 3’s sleeker cousin, with the same reliable cooling you’d expect from Dometic packed into a shorter, more aerodynamic shroud. That low-profile shape is a big deal if you do a lot of miles. Less wind drag means better gas mileage, and you’re way less likely to clip a low-hanging gas station roof or drive-thru.
It’s also shallow enough that luggage racks can sit right over the top, which is handy for smaller trailers and vans where roof space is gold.
The only real catch is the weight: at 99 lbs for the 13,500 BTU and 110 lbs for the 15,000 BTU, it’s the heaviest unit in this roundup, so get a buddy before you try to hoist it up there.
Pros
- Low-profile design saves on fuel and clears low overhangs.
- Leaves room for luggage racks and other rooftop gear.
- Eco-friendly R410A refrigerant.
- Durable rib-reinforced base pan for long hauls.
- Fits the universal 14″x14″ vent opening.
- Comes in black or white on the 13,500 BTU model.
Cons
- Heaviest unit in this review (99–110 lbs).
- 13,500 BTU is non-ducted only.
- No pre-installed controls, thermostat and hardware sold separately.
- Cool-only, no heat option.
3. Coleman Mach RV Air Conditioners
Key Features
- Two size options: the Coleman Mach 3 Plus (13,500 BTU) and the Coleman Mach 15 Plus (15,000 BTU).
- R32 refrigerant in both current models for better efficiency and a smaller environmental footprint.
- All-copper tubing with gas-flux brazed joints built to survive years of bumpy back roads.
- Mach 15 Power Saver EZ technology gives the 15,000 BTU a lower amp compressor draw for cheaper operation.
- Mach 3 Plus features large coils and raised lance fins that push 320 CFM of airflow.
- Fits the standard 14″x14″ roof vent opening for an easy swap on most RVs.
- Ducted and non-ducted compatible, though you’ll need the matching Coleman Mach ceiling assembly.
- Mach 3 Plus specs: 13.8″ H × 26.1″ W × 38.0″ L, 79.5 lbs, runs on 115V AC with 3,500 start-up and 1,695 running watts.
- Mach 15 Plus specs: 115V AC with 3,900 start-up and 1,800 running watts, also 320 CFM airflow.
- 5,000-watt generator minimum for either model without a soft start.
Summary
Coleman Mach has been a staple in the RV world for decades, and for good reason, these units are built tough. The all-copper tubing and brazed joints are really what set them apart, since dirt roads and washboard freeways can be brutal on the cheaper aluminum components you’ll find in some other units.
Both the Mach 3 Plus and the Mach 15 Plus fit the universal 14″x14″ opening, so swapping out an old AC is pretty straightforward.
If you’re an RVer who racks up miles on rough terrain or spends a lot of time boondocking, the Coleman Mach lineup is hard to beat on durability alone. Just keep in mind they’re heavier than the FreshJet 3, and you’ll want a 5,000-watt generator to run one without a soft start kit.
Pros
- Rock-solid build with copper tubing and brazed joints.
- R32 refrigerant for better efficiency in newer models.
- Power Saver EZ tech on the Mach 15 cuts down amp draw.
- Works with ducted and non-ducted setups.
- Mach 15 is available in a heat-and-cool version for year-round use.
- Fits the standard 14″x14″ roof opening.
Cons
- Heavier than the FreshJet 3 at around 80–90 lbs.
- Needs a 5,000-watt generator without a soft start.
- Ceiling assembly sold separately based on your setup.
4. ASA Electronics Advent Air RV AC
Key Features
- Two size options: the ACR135 (13,500 BTU) and the ACR150 (15,000 BTU), both solid options for most RVs and campers.
- R32 refrigerant in the newer models for cleaner, more efficient cooling.
- Condensation dispersion system that improves efficiency and keeps water from running down the sides of your rig.
- Rigid metal frame with thick foam support pads to cut down on vibration and road noise.
- Three fan speeds plus a fan-only mode so you can dial in airflow without always running the compressor.
- Fits the standard 14.25″x 14.25″ roof vent opening for a smooth install on most campers.
- Ducted and non-ducted compatible, with the ASA non-ducted ceiling assembly sold separately.
- Compact footprint at 12-13/16″ H x 24-7/8″ W x 31-3/16″ L, weighing 77.16 lbs on both BTU models.
- Lower power draw than most competitors, especially on the 13,500 BTU (3,000 start-up / 1,450 running watts).
- Runs on a 3,500-watt generator (13,500 BTU) without a soft start, or a 2,000-watt generator if you add one.
Summary
ASA Electronics doesn’t always get the same name recognition as Dometic or Coleman, but their Advent Air lineup has quietly earned a loyal following, especially with van lifers and dry campers.
The big selling point here is the low power draw, the 13,500 BTU model sips just 1,450 watts while running and only needs 3,000 to start, which is a huge deal if you’re relying on a smaller generator. Add a soft start kit and you can run it off a 2,000-watt inverter generator, which opens up a lot of options for people who boondock.
The condensation dispersion system is a nice touch too, since water streaks down the side of your rig are both annoying and a sign of potential long-term damage. It’s not the flashiest unit on the list, but it’s hard to beat for no-nonsense, efficient cooling in smaller spaces.
Pros
- Lowest power draw of any unit in this review.
- Can run on a 2,000-watt generator with a soft start kit.
- R32 refrigerant for better efficiency.
- Condensation dispersion system helps prevent water streaks.
- Ducted and non-ducted installs both supported.
Cons
- Brand isn’t as widely stocked as Dometic or Coleman for replacement parts.
- Non-ducted ceiling assembly sold separately.
- Slightly larger 14.25″x 14.25″ opening requirement (most vents are 14″x14″, usually not a problem, but worth double-checking).
- No heat option available.
5. Furrion Chill HE Rooftop RV Air Conditioner
Key Features
- 13,500 BTU cooling capacity built for RVs, campers, and travel trailers.
- Dual-fan system where one fan pushes cold air into the rig and the other keeps the primary fan cool.
- 50% higher cooling capacity and 40% more energy efficient than industry standards.
- 50% quieter than single-fan models, which is a noticeable upgrade overhead.
- Vibrationsmart and Climatesmart technologies to stand up to rough roads and extreme temperatures.
- Thermal-insulated shroud that protects internal components from water, heat, UV, and debris.
- Lightweight, aerodynamic mid-profile design that cuts drag and helps with fuel economy.
- R32 refrigerant for better efficiency and a lower environmental impact.
- Simple bolt-on installation with clear step-by-step instructions included.
- Full system sold separately, you’ll also need a thermostat, air distribution box, and controller to make it run.
Summary
Furrion built the Chill HE to solve a problem most RVers know too well: a single-fan AC that has to work overtime in hot weather and ends up screaming at you from the ceiling.
The dual-fan setup splits the workload, with one fan moving cold air into the rig while the second cools the compressor, which is where a lot of the noise (and inefficiency) usually comes from. The result is a quieter, more efficient unit that advertises 40% better EER than single-fan models.
It’s also built tough, with Vibrationsmart and Climatesmart tech designed to handle rough roads and extreme heat. If you’ve got an older Furrion AC and want to upgrade, or you’re starting fresh and want something that punches above its weight in airflow and efficiency, the Chill HE is a strong pick. Just budget for the thermostat, ADB, and controller, since none of those come in the box.
Pros
- Dual-fan tech delivers better airflow and noticeably less noise.
- 40% more energy efficient than most single-fan RV ACs.
- Aerodynamic design helps save on fuel.
- R32 refrigerant is cleaner and more efficient.
- Built tough for bumpy roads and hot climates.
- Simple bolt-on installation.
Cons
- Thermostat, air distribution box, and controller all sold separately.
- Conversion kit required if upgrading from a different brand.
- Slightly more complex setup than a basic single-fan AC.
6. Furrion Chill Cube 18k BTU RV AC
Key Features
- 18,000 BTU cooling capacity, over one ton of cooling power, built for campervans and RVs that need serious output.
- Variable speed compressors that adjust output on the fly instead of cycling on and off like a standard AC.
- Available in ducted and non-ducted versions to fit your rig’s setup.
- Industry-first oscillating vent on the non-ducted ADB for wider, more even airflow throughout the cabin.
- Low amp draw at startup, no soft start kit needed and less risk of tripping a breaker.
- Cools effectively even at 105°F outside, where a lot of standard RV ACs start to struggle.
- Lightweight at just 72.4 lbs, about 10% lighter than most RV ACs in this class.
- Aerodynamic design that cuts drag and leaves room for pop tops and rooftop solar panels.
- Better dehumidification since the variable speed compressors run continuously instead of short-cycling.
- Bolt-on installation with step-by-step instructions included in the box.
Summary
The Furrion Chill Cube 18K is one of the most innovative RV air conditioners out there, it’s doing things most others just can’t.
The variable speed compressor is the real magic here: instead of blasting on at full power, shutting off, then kicking back on (which is what’s happening every time you hear that loud “clunk” overhead), it smoothly ramps up and down based on how much cooling you actually need. That means way less noise, no giant amp surges at startup, and you can skip the soft start kit entirely.
It also handles serious heat better than most units, keeping up even when it’s 105°F outside. The 72.4 lb weight is impressive for an 18K BTU unit, and the low-profile aerodynamic shape leaves space on the roof for solar panels or a pop top.
It’s pricier than the single-speed competition, but if you full-time, boondock with solar, or live somewhere genuinely hot, the Chill Cube earns its keep.
Pros
- Variable speed compressor is quieter and more efficient than single-speed units.
- No soft start needed, works with smaller generators out of the box.
- Handles extreme heat up to 105°F without struggling.
- Lightweight for an 18K BTU unit at 72.4 lbs.
- Low-profile design leaves roof space for solar or pop tops.
- Available in both ducted and non-ducted versions.
Cons
- Full system components may need to be bought separately depending on config.
- Overkill for smaller trailers and vans that don’t need 18K BTU.
- Newer tech means fewer RV techs are familiar with servicing it.
What To Look For In An RV AC Unit
Total Watts Used (Starting Watts)
At first glance, the running watts on an RV rooftop air conditioner might look totally manageable. But here’s the catch, actually starting the unit takes way more power than running it. If your generator’s a little undersized, or you’re plugged into a 15- or 20-amp household outlet, you’re going to trip the breaker the second the AC kicks on.
The reason is something called start-up watts (or surge watts), which is the big jolt of power needed to get the compressor moving. That surge is usually about double the running watts. Plenty of household appliances do this too microwaves, fridges, you name it, which is why RVs use power-efficient appliances designed specifically for camper life.
Even if you’re connected to 30- or 50-amp shore power, it’s smart to ease off other appliances when you start the AC. The surge can still tip the circuit over the edge and trip the breaker.
If you’re running an RV AC off a generator, always check the surge watt rating before you buy. The running watts won’t tell you the whole story.
For tips on cutting down start-up watt demands, check out the FAQ section below.
Weight
RV air conditioners are way heavier than they look. The wiring and install part is honestly pretty doable, but the real headache is getting the old unit off the camper roof and hoisting the new one into place. A lot of these things weigh close to 100 lbs, and trying to wrangle that solo without the right tools is asking for trouble.
If hauling a hundred-pound unit up a ladder isn’t in the cards, go with one of the lighter RV AC models. They’re easier to install and they put less stress on your camper’s roof structure over time.
Weight matters when you’re loading up the camper too. If you almost never use your RV AC, taking it off completely could shave a chunk off your overall weight, which helps with fuel economy and load balance.
Ducted Or Non-Ducted
Before you pick out a new RV air conditioner, you need to figure out whether your camper has a ducted or non-ducted system. They’re suited to different setups, and grabbing the wrong type is a frustrating way to start an install.
Ducted RV Air Conditioners
Ducted setups are typical in larger RVs, travel trailers, and 5th-wheels. These systems push cool air through a network of ducts, which come out through those round vents you see scattered across the ceiling.
With ducted systems:
- The controls live on a wall-mounted thermostat.
- Most RV AC units on the market work with ducted systems and cool multiple rooms efficiently.
Non-Ducted RV Air Conditioners
Non-ducted systems show up most often in smaller trailers and vans. Instead of pushing air through ducts, the unit dumps cold air straight into the space below it through an interior vent cover.
With non-ducted systems:
- The controls are usually built right into the vent cover.
- The setup is simpler, and these units are typically easier to install and maintain.
If you’re swapping out an RV air conditioner, figure out which system your camper uses before you buy. It’ll save you the hassle of returning a unit that won’t work with your setup.
Final Thoughts
Even when the weather isn’t extreme, RVs and campers have a way of turning into ovens. Sun beating down on a metal roof with thin insulation? Yeah, it adds up fast. Vans are even worse. With less interior space and even less insulation, hot summer days inside a converted van can be downright miserable without a good AC.
A solid RV air conditioner is one of the best ways to stay cool out there, but you’ve got to make sure your setup can actually power it. Most standard RV ACs need a 30-amp or 50-amp shore connection, or a generator with enough surge wattage to handle that initial start-up jolt.
That’s where things get tricky for a lot of people. Standard 13,500 BTU and 15,000 BTU RV AC units won’t run off a regular 15- or 20-amp household outlet because of their high start-up watts. You can get around this with a soft start kit (more on that in the FAQ below), or you can go with one of the newer variable-speed units like the Furrion Chill Cube that don’t need one at all.
At the end of the day, the right RV air conditioner comes down to your setup. Think about how you camp, what kind of power you’ve got to work with, and how much weight your roof can comfortably carry. A boondocker running off solar has totally different needs than a snowbird who pulls into full-hookup parks every night, and there’s no single “best” unit that fits every rig.
Looking at things like total power usage, weight, wind resistance, and noise will help you narrow it down to the option that fits your camper and your camping style. Whatever you land on, an upgrade from an old, loud, power-hungry unit is almost always worth it.
Frequently Asked Questions About RV Air Conditioners
How can I make an RV AC run quieter?
RV air conditioners are loud, there’s no getting around it. The compressor hum and fan noise get amplified by the fact that the unit is sitting right over your head. Some noise is just part of the deal, but there are a few things you can do to take the edge off.
- Check the Mounting Bolts and Screws – Loose bolts or screws can cause the unit to rattle and vibrate, which makes everything louder than it needs to be. Pop off the inner cover, tighten the main bolts holding it to the roof, and put the cover back on snugly.
- Clean the Air Filter – A dirty air filter forces the fan to work harder, and a harder-working fan is a louder fan. Cleaning or swapping out the filter can help your AC run more efficiently and quieter at the same time.
If your RV air conditioner is still louder than expected, here are a few more things to check and potential upgrades to consider:
- Inspect the Fan Under the Shroud – Take the outer shroud off and check around the fan for debris. Leaves, twigs, dirt, or, yes, even a bird’s nest can create serious noise and vibration. Clearing it out can make a real difference.
- Consider an RV AC Silencer – RV AC silencers (click to view on Amazon) are insulated inner covers that dampen the sound coming into the camper. They’re easy to install and can knock down the noise level noticeably without any major work.
- Upgrade to a Newer RV AC Unit – Older RV ACs are just plain louder. Newer units like the Dometic FreshJet 3 or the Furrion Chill Cube use updated tech to run significantly quieter, and they cool more efficiently too, which means shorter run times overall, and less noise during the day.
Why is the initial start up wattage higher than the running wattage on an RV AC Unit?
RV air conditioners need a serious power surge to get the compressor moving. The compressor is what actually cools the air, and getting it spinning from a dead stop takes a lot more energy than keeping it going once it’s already running. That initial jolt is what we call start-up wattage.
Once the compressor is up and running, the power demand drops down to the running wattage, which is the steady, lower amount the AC pulls during normal operation.
A lot of people make the mistake of looking only at running wattage when sizing a generator, which leads to tripped breakers and frustrated campers. Most RV ACs need close to double the running wattage for that brief start-up moment, and if your generator can’t deliver, you’re not going anywhere.
If you’re working with a smaller generator, a soft start kit is your best friend. It cuts the start-up wattage way down so you can run an RV AC on a much smaller power source.
How to run an RV AC with a small generator (Easy Start)
Now that you understand start-up wattage, you might be thinking the only solution is buying a bigger generator. But there’s actually a way around it, a soft start device.
A soft start lets you run an RV AC on smaller generators like a 2,000-watt Honda or a 3,000-watt unit with a 121cc engine. It also makes it possible to run two RV air conditioners at the same time on a single 30-amp connection.
What Does a Soft Start Do?
A soft start like the SoftStartRV (click to view on Amazon) uses a microprocessor to manage the initial power surge. By feeding the compressor exactly the right amount of power at the right moment, it “tricks” it into starting with a much lower wattage spike than usual.
Benefits of a Soft Start
- Run most 13,500 BTU and 15,000 BTU RV ACs off smaller generators.
- Operate two AC units on a single 30-amp connection.
- Reduces wear and tear on both your generator and your AC compressor.
Easy Installation
The soft start connects directly to your rooftop AC unit, and the install isn’t too bad. There are plenty of step-by-step videos online. RVgeeks has a great one if you want to see it done.
Can RV air conditioners be recharged?
Nope, at least not in the way some home AC systems can be. RV air conditioners are factory-sealed and pre-filled with refrigerant for their entire lifespan. If your AC is losing cooling power because of a refrigerant leak, that’s a sign of a real problem.
Most of the time, a leaking RV AC needs professional repair, and in some cases it’s just easier (and cheaper) to replace the whole unit. Trying to recharge it yourself isn’t recommended, it can void the warranty and potentially make things worse. If you suspect a refrigerant issue, talk to a tech or start shopping for a new unit.
Does an RV air conditioner run on propane?
No, RV air conditioners run on electricity only, even the ones with built-in heating elements.
What causes RV air conditioners to freeze up?
A frozen RV AC is one of the most common issues out there. If your AC suddenly gets noisier than usual or stops blowing cold air the way it should, it might be iced up. To check, pull off the shroud and look for visible ice on the coils.
What to Do If Your RV AC Freezes
Turn it off right away. Letting a frozen AC keep running is a quick path to serious damage. Once it’s off, figure out what caused the freeze before turning it back on.
Common Causes of Freezing
- Clogged air filter restricting airflow (this is by far the most common cause).
- Dirty coils or cooling fins preventing proper heat exchange.
- High humidity causing excess moisture buildup.
- Malfunctioning thermostat that overcools the system.
- Low refrigerant levels from a leak somewhere in the system.
- Blocked condenser coils that can’t dissipate heat properly.
How to Fix a Frozen RV AC
- Clean the air filter, start here, since this is the most common culprit.
- Defrost the AC by running just the fan (no cooling) for a few hours until the ice melts.
- Clean the coils carefully if they look dirty, to keep airflow strong and prevent another freeze.
Once you’ve done all that, fire it back up and see how it performs. If it freezes again, you’ve probably got a deeper issue that needs a tech to look at.
How to clean an RV air conditioner filter.
Take a look at your filter at least once a month during regular use. A clean filter keeps airflow strong and keeps your AC running efficiently.
Steps to Clean an RV AC Filter
- Remove the filter from behind the vent cover inside your RV, check your owner’s manual for the specifics.
- Shake off loose dirt outside, away from your living space.
- Vacuum the filter with a brush attachment to grab the smaller stuff (be gentle so you don’t tear it).
- Rinse with water if your manufacturer allows it, skip the soap unless they specifically say to use it. Let it air dry completely before reinstalling.
- Reinstall the filter once it’s bone dry, and make sure the vent cover is secure.
When to Replace Your Filter
Even with regular cleaning, filters wear out. Time for a replacement when:
- It still looks dirty after a thorough cleaning.
- Airflow has dropped or AC performance is noticeably worse.
- It’s been several months of heavy use.
Replacement filters are cheap and easy to find online or at any RV store, so there’s really no excuse to let it go.
Do I Need To Run A Dehumidifier When The RV AC Is Running?
I’ve written a full post answering this question. You can find it here.
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