When to Repair, Reseal, or Replace An RV Rubber Roof
Maintaining your RV’s rubber roof is essential to prevent leaks and damage. Depending on its condition, you may need to repair, reseal, or replace it.
- Repair – If you’re camping and discover a hole or tear, a quick patch will keep water out and prevent further damage.
- Reseal – Every year or so, especially at the end of the camping season, resealing helps protect your roof from leaks and prepares it for winter.
- Replace – If your roof has been neglected for years and shows extensive cracks, soft spots, water damage, or a peeling rubber membrane, replacement is the best option.
Regular inspections and maintenance will extend the life of your RV’s roof and save you from costly repairs.
In this guide, we’ll cover when and how to repair, reseal, or replace your RV’s rubber roof so you can keep it in top shape for your next adventure.
RV Rubber Roof Repair
Imagine you’re out camping, and a tree branch falls on your RV. You climb up to check and find a hole in the rubber roof membrane.
This needs an immediate repair to prevent leaks and further damage.
What You’ll Need
Sealant Tape
Many full-time RVers, including me, recommend EternaBond Roof Seal Tape (click to view on Amazon) for quick and long-lasting repairs. It’s also great for resealing, which I’ll cover later.
EternaBond uses MicroSealant technology, allowing it to bond to almost any surface, including TPO and EPDM rubber roofs. It’s highly durable, with a lifespan of 18 to 35 years, making it a reliable solution.
I prefer sealant tape for repairs, but RV sealant (self-leveling or non-sag) can work as a temporary fix.
Cleaner and Primer
Proper cleaning and priming is the key to a lasting repair. If the surface isn’t cleaned well, nothing will stick properly.
Eternabond offers EternaClean Spray Cleaner (click to view on Amazon) and EternaPrime Conditioner Spray (click to view on Amazon), which helps with adhesion.
EternaBond’s cleaner and primer make a great combo for a long-lasting repair, but I usually stick with dish soap and 91% isopropyl alcohol. They’ve worked well for every repair I’ve done so far.
Roller
For small patches, a roller isn’t necessary, but if you’re sealing a long scratch or cracked seam, it’s a must. A steel roller (click to view on Amazon) helps apply pressure evenly, creating a strong bond between the tape and the roof.
With the right tools and a little prep, you can quickly repair your RV roof and get back to enjoying your trip.

How to Repair
Your RV’s rubber roof is the only barrier keeping water out, and underneath it is just a layer of wooden boards. Even a tiny hole in the membrane can lead to leaks, which can quickly cause water damage and mold growth.
Mold can be devastating to an RV, so it’s important to repair any damage as soon as possible.
1. Clean the Area
Preparation is the key to a successful repair. Any dirt, dust, or oils left behind can weaken the adhesive and lead to future leaks.
- Use warm water and dish soap with a plastic brush or sponge to scrub the area around the damage. Be sure to clean a bit beyond the affected spot.
- Rinse off the soap using a damp rag.
- Once dry, wipe the area again with 91% isopropyl alcohol (or denatured alcohol, acetone, mineral spirits, or
- EternaClean if you have it).
- Never pour harsh cleaners directly onto the roof, as they could damage the rubber. Always apply them with a rag.
- If using EternaClean, it can be sprayed directly onto the surface.
2. Prepare the Patch
For the best seal, the repair tape should extend at least 2-3 inches past all sides of the hole or damaged area. This extra coverage helps ensure a strong bond and prevents water from seeping in around the edges.
For larger damage or high-stress areas, extending 4-6 inches beyond the damage provides even better protection.
If you’re using a pre-cut patch, like the Dicor Rapair Tape Patch (click to view on Amazon), it’s best to use the entire piece, even for small holes. A 6×6 inch patch provides the best coverage and long-term protection.
Tip
Always round the corners of your patch. Sharp corners are more likely to peel over time, while rounded edges create a stronger bond. This is why many professional patches are circular rather than square.

3. Apply the Roof Patch
Now it’s time to seal the damage.
- If your patch has a plastic backing, carefully peel it off. If it’s hard to remove, use the tip of a box cutter to lift a corner.
- Press the patch firmly over the hole, making sure there are no air bubbles or wrinkles.
- For small patches, you can press it down with your hand. For larger areas, a roller helps create a stronger bond.
- Hold pressure on the patch for a few seconds to ensure the adhesive grips properly.
Your repair is now complete!
How to Fix Long Scratches or Cracked Seals
For long scratches, cracks, or resealing molding and trims, EternaBond Roof Seal Tape is an excellent solution. It can also be used around vents and fans.
The process is similar to patching a hole, with just a few differences.
- Cut the tape long enough to cover the entire damaged area, with a few inches extending beyond the edges for a strong seal.
- If covering old caulk, you don’t need to remove it—just clean the area well and apply the tape over the top.
- For extra durability, use a steel roller to press out air bubbles and create a tight seal.
- If overlapping tape pieces, rough up the surface with a steel brush or abrasive pad before applying the next layer.
Many RVers use EternaBond tape to fix areas where the rubber roof curves down at the sides, as these spots are prone to peeling and cracking. Some RV repair shops even use this method instead of replacing the entire roof membrane.
By following these steps, you can extend the life of your RV’s roof, prevent costly water damage, and keep your camper in great shape for years to come!

RV Rubber Roof Reseal
Resealing your RV roof is an important maintenance task that helps prevent leaks and extends its lifespan. Some RVers reseal their roofs every year, while others go a few seasons without needing a full reseal.
If your RV is stored under cover when not in use, you can usually go longer before needing to reseal. If you live in a hot climate, it’s recommended to reseal at least once a year.

How to Know When Your RV Roof Needs Resealing
A simple visual inspection can tell you if it’s time to reseal. Look for cracks, gaps, or peeling sealant. If you see any, it’s time for a touch-up or full reseal.
You can also test the sealant by pressing a metal scraper into it. If the sealant feels soft and the scraper leaves a dent, it’s still in good shape.
If the sealant is brittle or cracks, or if the scraper pokes through it, it needs to be removed and replaced.
Most RVers traditionally use self-leveling lap sealant to seal vents, skylights, and roof edges. This method works well, but it requires removing old caulk and thoroughly cleaning the surface before applying fresh sealant.

Best RV Sealant Options
There are two reliable options for resealing an RV rubber roof: EternaBond roof seal tape and self-leveling lap sealant. Each has its own advantages, and the best choice depends on your needs.
Below, I’ll explain the differences between them and provide step-by-step instructions for both methods.
EternaBond Roof Seal Tape
EternaBond Roof Seal Tape is one of the most durable and effective solutions for resealing an RV roof.
Unlike traditional self-leveling lap sealants that require frequent reapplications, EternaBond creates a permanent, waterproof bond that can last 18 to 35 years.
Its MicroSealant technology allows it to adhere to almost any surface, including TPO, EPDM rubber, fiberglass, and aluminum, making it a versatile choice for all RV roof types.
The biggest advantage of EternaBond is its time-saving application. There’s no need to remove old caulk, just clean the surface and apply the tape over it. This makes it a popular choice for resealing around vents, skylights, and roof seams.
Many full-time RVers, including us, swear by EternaBond because it eliminates the need for yearly resealing, providing a low-maintenance, high-durability solution for keeping your RV roof watertight.
My Verdict
For those looking for a long-term, low-maintenance solution for sealing their RV roof, EternaBond is one of the best options available.
Pros
- Long-Lasting Durability
- Waterproof & Weatherproof
- Works on Multiple Surfaces
- Easy to Apply
- Saves Time & Effort
Cons
- Higher Upfront Cost
- Difficult to Remove
- Visible on Roof Edges
- May Void Warranty
How to Use
- Inspect the Roof – Check the roof for cracks, peeling sealant, or leaks. Focus on seams, edges, and any areas with vents or skylights.
- Clean the Surface -Use warm water and dish soap to remove dirt and grime. Wipe the area with 91% isopropyl alcohol or EternaClean to remove oils and residue. Let the surface fully dry before applying the tape.
- Measure and Cut the Tape – Cut a piece of EternaBond tape long enough to cover the damaged area, plus 2-3 inches beyond each side. Round off the corners to prevent peeling.
- Apply the Tape – Remove the backing slowly while pressing the tape firmly onto the surface. Start from one end and smooth it down as you go to avoid air bubbles.
- Secure with a Roller – Use a steel roller to press down on the tape and ensure a strong bond. Apply extra pressure along the edges to create a watertight seal.
Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealant
Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealant is one of the most widely used and trusted RV roof sealants. Designed for use on TPO and EPDM rubber roofs, it creates a watertight, flexible seal around vents, skylights, antennas, and roof seams.
Its self-leveling formula allows it to spread evenly over flat surfaces, ensuring seamless coverage with minimal effort. Unlike EternaBond tape, Dicor lap sealant requires removal of old caulk and thorough surface prep before reapplication.
However, it blends well with most RV roofs and provides a clean, professional finish. While it needs to be checked and touched up over time, Dicor remains a cost-effective, reliable option for sealing and maintaining an RV roof.
My Verdict
Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealant is a tried-and-true option for RV roof maintenance. It’s affordable, easy to apply, and provides a strong, flexible seal. While it requires more frequent upkeep than EternaBond, it remains one of the top choices for routine RV roof maintenance.
Pros
- Affordable & Readily Available
- Trusted by RVers & Manufacturers
- Easy to Apply
- Blends Well
- Flexible & Waterproof
Cons
- Requires Regular Maintenance
- Surface Prep Needed
- Longer Drying Time
- Not for Vertical Surfaces
How to Use
- Inspect the Roof – Look for cracks, gaps, or worn-out sealant around vents, seams, and other areas where water could seep in.
- Remove Old Sealant (If Necessary) – If the existing sealant is dry, cracked, or peeling, use a plastic scraper to remove as much as possible. Be careful not to damage the rubber roof underneath.
- Clean the Area – Wipe down the surface with denatured alcohol or 91% isopropyl alcohol to remove dirt, grease, and oils. Let it fully dry before applying new sealant.
- Apply the Self-Leveling Lap Sealant – Cut the tip of the sealant tube at an angle and insert it into a caulk gun. Apply a continuous bead of sealant over seams, screw heads, and any areas needing resealing. Let the sealant spread and self-level over the surface—don’t touch it or try to smooth it out.
- Allow Time to Cure – The sealant skins over in about 1-2 hours, but fully cures in 24-48 hours. Avoid walking on the roof during this time.
Best Resealing Strategy
To get the best of both worlds, some RVers use EternaBond for long-term sealing in areas they won’t need to access, such as along the roof edges. For areas that may need future repairs, like vents and fans, using self-leveling lap sealant is a better option.
By choosing the right method for your needs, you can protect your RV’s roof for years to come with minimal maintenance.

RV Rubber Roof Replacement
Deciding when to fully replace an RV rubber roof can be more challenging than knowing when to repair or reseal it.
EPDM roofs look worn out faster because they have a black rubber base with a white protective coating. Over time, the coating wears off, making the roof look damaged when all it might need is a fresh coat of white roof sealant.
TPO roofs are typically white or gray and may appear to be in good shape even when they are actually worn and in need of replacement.
How Long Should a Rubber RV Roof Last?
A well-maintained rubber RV roof can last around 20 years, but several things can shorten its lifespan.
If the RV is stored outdoors in direct sunlight, the roof will wear out faster than if it’s kept in covered storage.
The climate also plays a big role. Hot and dry areas like Arizona and Nevada can cause rubber roofs to break down faster than in milder climates.
Signs Your RV Roof Needs Replacement
Age
Most RV rubber roofs come with a 10-15 year warranty, but their actual lifespan depends on maintenance and storage. If you’ve recently purchased a used RV, always inspect the roof to assess its condition.
Visual Wear
A healthy rubber RV roof should be smooth with no wrinkles. There shouldn’t be any dark or brown spots, since those can mean sun or water damage.
If the weave pattern of the fabric underneath is visible, the outer layer is too worn down.
Water leaks are another sign of trouble. If all the sealant looks intact but water is still getting in, the rubber roof itself might be failing.
Feel
Walking on the roof can also help determine its condition. Underneath the rubber membrane is plywood and foam, which should feel firm but slightly flexible. If you notice soft spots, it could mean that wood rot has compromised the structure.
If the plywood underneath is damaged, it must be replaced, which requires removing the rubber membrane. Since most rubber roofs don’t survive removal, a full replacement is usually necessary.
How to Replace an RV Rubber Roof
Replacing an RV rubber roof is a labor-intensive job. Many RV repair shops offer this service, but it can be expensive because of the cost of materials and labor.
If you’re comfortable with DIY projects, you can replace the roof yourself using a RV rubber roof kits (click to view on Amazon).
These kits usually include a rubber roof membrane (either TPO or EPDM), adhesives, putty tape, and lap sealant. Just make sure to get the right size for your RV.
TPO vs. EPDM – Which One to Choose?
Both TPO and EPDM have their pros and cons. EPDM is more flexible but needs regular sealing to stay in good shape. TPO is more rigid and does a better job reflecting heat, but it can be harder to install.
If you’re unsure, check out this detailed guide on TPO vs. EPDM roofing.
I’m going to make a quick list of the steps involved when replacing the rubber roof on a camper to help you get an idea of what’s involved. This is mostly so you can decide if it sounds like something you want to do yourself or hire someone else to do.
I will not go into great detail since there’s a lot to it. If you think it’s something you can do, I recommend checking out this awesome YouTube video by C.L.S. Allinone (click to view).
He explains every step well and even shows how to replace the plywood underneath the membrane.
If you’ve decided it’s time for a replacement, you can replace or redo some of the RV roof appliances since they will all need to be removed anyway.
For instance, it’s fairly easy to turn a standard roof vent into a powered fan. You can even replace the AC unit with a vent or skylight.
You could also add some solar panels to recharge the RV battery while you’re boondocking.
All these installs and replacements require sealing once installed, so you may as well do it while you’re resealing your new RV roof.
DIY RV Rubber Roof Replacement: Step-by-Step Guide
- Remove Rooftop Components – Start by removing all rooftop appliances and accessories, including the AC unit, vents and fans, fridge vent cover, and TV antenna. Next, remove the termination bars, end strips, and caps along the front, back, and sides of the camper. Many are secured with rivets that need to be drilled out.
- Remove the Old Rubber Roof – Peel back the old rubber membrane. It’s glued down with adhesive, so removal may take time, especially if the roof is brittle. Inspect the plywood underneath and replace any soft or damaged sections. Clean the plywood surface to prepare it for the new roof.
- Prepare the Roof for the New Membrane – Apply seam tape over all gaps between plywood panels to create a smooth surface. Lay out the new rubber roof membrane over the RV (without adhesive yet) to check for the right fit. Once confirmed, roll it back up to get ready for installation.
- Apply Roofing Adhesive & Install the New Roof – Apply roofing adhesive in small sections, starting at one end of the roof. Roll out the membrane little by little, pressing out any air bubbles and wrinkles as you go. Mark the locations of rooftop openings before fully securing the membrane to avoid cutting in the wrong spots. When the membrane is fully rolled out, apply adhesive to the last section and press it down.
- Secure the Roof Edges & Openings – Tuck the roof membrane under the front cap for extra security. Cut out openings for vents, AC, and skylights, securing the edges with staples or screws as needed. Install side termination bars, using putty tape underneath for a better seal. Use self-sealing roofing screws instead of rivets if preferred. Trim excess membrane from the edges before securing the remaining termination bars.
- Seal Everything Properly – Apply lap sealant or EternaBond tape over the front and back termination bars, making sure to cover screw heads. Add lap sealant or EternaBond along the side termination bars to create a watertight seal.
- Reinstall Roof Components – Mount all RV rooftop appliances and accessories (AC, vents, fans, etc.). Use butyl (putty) tape and lap sealant around all openings to prevent leaks.
Frequently Asked Questions About RV Rubber Roof Repair
How do I know if my RV rubber roof needs to be replaced?
If your roof has extensive cracking, soft spots, or visible water damage, it’s likely time for a full replacement. Also, if you can see the fabric weave underneath the rubber membrane, the outer protective layer is too worn down to be effective.
How long does an RV rubber roof last?
With proper maintenance and storage, a rubber RV roof can last 15-20 years. However, exposure to harsh weather, UV rays, and improper care can significantly shorten its lifespan.
Should I use TPO or EPDM for my new RV roof?
EPDM is flexible, absorbs heat, and requires more frequent resealing. TPO is more rigid, reflects heat better, and is more resistant to wear but can be trickier to install.
Both are great options, and the best choice depends on your climate and maintenance preferences.
Can I replace my RV rubber roof myself?
Yes, but it’s a labor-intensive job. If you’re comfortable with DIY projects, you can use an RV rubber roof replacement kit that includes the membrane, adhesive, putty tape, and sealant.
If the roof structure is severely damaged, professional help may be necessary.
How much does it cost to replace an RV rubber roof?
Replacing an RV rubber roof can cost anywhere from $300 to $1,000 if you do it yourself, depending on the size of the RV and the materials used.
Hiring a professional costs between $3,000 and $10,000. Doing it yourself can save thousands, but it takes a lot of time and effort.
Can I install a new rubber roof over the old one?
No. The old membrane must be removed, and any damaged plywood underneath needs to be replaced before installing a new roof.
How long does it take to replace an RV rubber roof?
For an experienced DIYer, the job can take 2-4 days. A professional shop may complete it in 1-2 days, depending on the extent of repairs.
What tools do I need for a DIY RV roof replacement?
For a DIY RV roof replacement, you’ll need a few basic tools.
A utility knife is essential for cutting the roofing material, and a plastic scraper helps remove old sealant without damaging the surface.
A caulk gun is needed for applying a new sealant, and a drill will make it easier to remove and reinstall termination bars.
A measuring tape helps ensure everything is cut to the right size, and if you’re using EternaBond tape, a steel roller is necessary to get a strong bond.
What’s the best way to remove the old rubber roof?
Use a utility knife to cut the membrane into sections, then peel it off slowly while scraping away the adhesive underneath. This process takes time, especially if the roof is old and brittle.
How do I prevent future roof damage?
To prevent future roof damage, inspect your RV roof at least twice a year for cracks, leaks, and soft spots.
Keep it clean using mild soap and water, and avoid harsh chemicals that can wear down the material.
Reseal seams and edges once a year with self-leveling lap sealant or EternaBond tape to keep water out.
Storing your RV in a covered area helps protect the roof from excessive sun exposure, which can cause it to wear out faster.
What’s the Easiest Way to Remove EternaBond Tape?
EternaBond tape is built to last, which makes removal a challenge. Heat is the best way to loosen the adhesive and make the process easier.
If possible, leave your RV in the sun for a day and remove the tape in the evening when it’s warmed up. If that’s not an option, use a heat gun or hairdryer to apply direct heat as you work.
Once the tape loosens, peel it back slowly and use a razor blade or plastic scraper for stubborn sections. Be careful not to damage the rubber roof membrane if you’re working on a soft surface.
After removing the tape, a layer of gray adhesive will probably remain. If you’re applying new EternaBond tape or lap sealant, just clean the area and seal over it.
If you need to remove the adhesive completely, turpentine can help break it down. Keep applying heat and scrape gently until most of the residue is gone.
On hard surfaces like fiberglass, aluminum, or glass, removal is easier, but the method is the same—heat, peel, and scrape.
It takes some effort, but patience and the right tools make the job more manageable.
Have any more questions about RV rubber roof repair, reseal, or replacement? Leave a comment below.
One thing you don’t talk about is using a roof sealant to cover the entire roof. I have been looking at a product called crazy seal (https://crazyseal.com/crazy-seal/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkr7Eot6e-AIVUm5vBB0Efw-xEAAYASAAEgIQxvD_BwE) which is expensive but appears to reseal everything without having to tear off the old rubber seal.
Do you have any experience with this? Does appling crazy seal to a older roof that has not leaked extend its life by another 20 years? Anyway I would be interested in your opinions.
Hi Kevin,
I don’t have any experience with Crazy Seal but it seems like a solid product. If you do the prep work correctly I don’t see why it wouldn’t extend the life of an older RV roof, so long as it’s not too worn.
You can check out some more RV roof coatings in this post here (click to view) if you want to read about some other options.
Hi Jenni. I just noticed in my 2013 Vista a small star crack in the roof. If I just cover it with a patch of Eternabond will the crack eventually expand? Or should I drill out the crack and plug the hole and THEN cover it?
Hi Tony,
From my experience, Eternabond does stop more cracking if the entire crack was covered.
So I think you should be good, but I would check it every now and again to make sure.
I am trying to apply a coating over mt rubber roof but I have noticed some small bubbles in a few areas, the largest being 2″ x 4″. My question is should I cut the bubbles, single knife cut and glue it down before I coat the roof or just coat over it?
I would cut and glue down the bubbles before coating the roof.
If you don’t, they’ll probably get worse over time. Since you’re resealing it anyways, I think it’s a good idea to fix it now.
I have a pre-owned 1998 Bigfoot Oakland 10’11’C 3000 series camper but no history on the vehicle. The brochure says the roof is rubber but doesn’t specify TPO or EPDM rubber. It has definitely been recoated/sealed with a white product. I went on the roof to clean it with soap and water when I noticed that the surface started developing grey spots several inches in diameter. They disappeared as the roof dried. Does this suggest the material is absorbing the water and needs to be resealed? If so, do you happen to know what type of rubber would be on this roof and the most appropriate roll on coating to use?
Love the camper and want to keep it happy.
Sean
Hi Sean,
Could the grey spots be the original roof showing through the coating when it’s wet? If there’s water leaking through you should be finding soft areas in the roof or see water spots inside the RV.
If everything seems like it’s in good shape and there’s no signs of water leaks it should be fine.
For help identifying the material your RV roof is made of, check out this article here.
I resealed my rubber roof and the day after there are bubbles popping up. What can I do to fix this issue?
Thank You for your assistance
Bob
Hi Bob,
You can cut a small opening in the center of the bubble and add some adhesive to glue the membrane back down. Once the glue has dried you can make a patch with Eternabond RV Roof Tape (click to view on Amazon) to put over the cut and reseal the roof.
He we sustained some damage to the edge of our rubber roof. Caught it on a shed oops.
Can we use eterna bond tape to fix this? And should we pull up the undamaged trim to tuck it under while fixing?
Hi Sara,
It depends on what the damage is like. I could see eternabond tape being a good option for piecing the roof back together, but if it’s a big hole or gap it might not be enough.
As for the trim, I’m not exactly sure what you mean by that, but you could put the eternabond over the trim.
Good RV rubber roof article. Thanks for sharing. Well, I have an EPDM rubber roof in my mobile home, and to reseal and repair I use Liquid Roof for example “RV Roof Magic” rubber roof sealant as it has given me the best outcome due to its incomparable properties and mesmerizing features. It effectively seals all kinds of leaks, gaps, and minor openings and holes and dries into a watertight, flexible coating that stops leaks immediately extending the RV’s roof service life for 15 to 18 years and giving long-term peace of mind. RV Roof Magic can be applied to almost all types of roofing material making it highly resistive in heavy rainfall, hailstorms, and snowfall as it can withstand ponding water 365 days a year.