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How To Connect Third-Party Solar Panels To Goal Zero Yeti

Charging Goal Zero Power Stations With Third-Party Panels

After purchasing a Goal Zero Yeti 1000 Lithium Power Station (click to view on Amazon), we started looking for solar panels to go with it.

Goal Zero makes its own solar panels, but we wanted to mount two panels on top of our RV roof and have a couple of portable ones that we could angle and move around with ease on the ground.

Related Product: A very portable solar panel option to charge Goal Zero power stations is the Twelseavan 120W (click to view on Amazon). It’s compatible right out of the box.

We decided to buy two Renogy 100W Suitcase Solar Panels (click to view on Amazon) and two Renogy 100W Solar Panels (click to view on Amazon).

These panels come with MC4 connectors, and the Yeti 1000 (or any Yeti for that matter) doesn’t have an MC4 input.

After talking to Goal Zero, we figured out what kind of adapter we need and what you need to think about when connecting third-party solar panels to a Yeti power station.

Today I am going to share what we learned about connecting third-party solar panels to a Goal Zero Yeti Portable Power Station.

See Also: Best Solar Panels Compatible With Goal Zero Yeti Power Stations

How To Connect Third-Party Solar Panels To Goal Zero Yeti

All the solar panels I link to in this post, and in my post about the best solar panels compatible with Yeti power stations, are wired the same way as the Renogy panels.

Renogy panels have a positive male MC4 connector and a negative female MC4 connector coming from the panel.

So to connect it to the Yeti, we need an adapter like this (click to view on Amazon).

iGreely Connector Solar Panel Cable Kits for Solar Panel RV Marine...

Check Price at Amazon

As you can see, the female end of the cable linked to above is a positive wire (red), and the male is a negative (black), making it a match for my Renogy solar panels.

You’re going to have to rearrange the Anderson connector for it to fit the Yeti, but that is very easy to do.

Just slide down the protective sleeve, slide the connectors off of each other and turn them so the orientation is the same as on the Yeti, then slide them back on.

Hold the Anderson connectors when sliding them off of each other to reconfigure the orientation.

Some people grab the wires and pull them right out of the connectors, which is not what you want to do.

If you want to use the 8mm input (since not every Yeti has an APP input), this is adapter you need (click to view on Amazon).

This adapter doesn’t require any rearranging. Note that the 8mm inputs max out at 10A (120W input).

SolarEnz Solar Connector to DC8mm Adapter Cable Perfectly Solar...

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Again, the adapter above has a positive MC4 female connector, and a negative MC4 male connector, which makes it a match with Renogy panels.

This is important! Some adapters are wired the opposite way and won’t work.

See Also: Goal Zero Solar Panels Compared

Note that the positive from your solar panel should always go into the positive red wire on the adapter, or you have the wrong cable. The red piece of the Anderson Power Pole should then always go into the red Anderson part on the Yeti.

What Makes A Solar Panel Compatible With Goal Zero Power Stations

Let’s talk about what makes a third-party solar panel compatible with the Goal Zero Yeti Lithium power stations.


The voltage of a third-party panel is very important to be aware of since the charge controllers in the Yeti power stations are not going to allow a voltage that’s too high.

You might’ve seen the sticker on the front of your Yeti that says “Never Exceed 22V”. The newer larger Yeti X models say “Never Exceed 50V”.

This refers to the VMP voltage, which is the maximum power voltage of a solar panel. This VMP rating can usually be found on the panel itself, or in the manual.

If we take a look at one of the panels I have, the Renogy 100W 12V (click to view on Amazon), it tells us in the product description that the Optimum Operating Voltage (Vmp) is 17.9V. Since that’s below 22V and 50V, it’s compatible with all of the Yeti models.

For a different example, take a look at the Rich Solar 200 Watt 24 Volt Solar Panel (click to view on Amazon). It has a Vmp rating of 37.6V, which makes it compatible with the new Yeti models that can handle up to 50V.

You can only wire one or two in parallel though since wiring two of them in series would result in a voltage higher than 50V, which is not safe.

If you have a Yeti non-lithium power station, the max voltage is different and depends on which model you own.

No charge controller

Since the Yeti models have a built-in charge controller, you can’t connect a solar panel that has a built-in charge controller.

See Also: How To Bypass Solar Charge Controller On Renogy Suitcase

A lot of portable solar panels are sold with charge controllers because they’re supposed to be connected directly to a battery, but when charging solar generators you need to connect one that doesn’t have one or find a way to bypass it.


The solar panels I recommend come with two MC4 connectors. More specifically a positive MC4 male connector, and a negative MC4 female connector.

If your panel has different connectors or is wired differently, you’re going to need a different adapter to connect it to the Yeti. I can help you out if you leave a comment with info about your panel.

Can You Just Tell Me What Panel Works With What Adapter?

If it’s still confusing, these solar panels are compatible with both the Anderson and the 8mm adapter below. Clicking on any of the links will take you to the product page on Amazon.com.

If you don’t have a Yeti 1000, 1000X, 1250, 1400, 1500X, 3000, 3000X, or 6000X you must use the 8mm adapter.

Solar PanelRenogy 100W / HQST 100W / Newpowa 100W / Eco-Worthy 100W / Allpowers 100W Flexible

Adapter (APP)MC4 to Anderson Power Pole Adapter

or if you want to use the 8mm input

Adapter (8mm) MC4 to 8mm Adapter Cable

If your panel(s) might output more than 10A (120W), you should use the Anderson adapter since the 8mm input has a 10A limit.

third party solar panels on an rv that are connected to a goal zero yeti power station
Two of the three Renogy solar panels on our RV are connected to our Goal Zero Yeti power station.

How To Connect Two Or More Solar Panels?

You can combine several panels to charge your Yeti faster. There are two main ways to do this, although there is also a third way for large setups.

The two most popular ways are called parallel and series. A parallel connection will add the amperages together but keep the voltage the same. A series connection will add the voltage together but keep the amps the same.

Since the Yeti power stations have voltage limits, you’re going to have to do some math if you want to connect panels in series.

The amps and volts (VMP) ratings of a solar panel can usually be found on the panel itself, or in the manual.

When you start connecting several panels together, I recommend using the Anderson input instead of the 8mm, since the 8mm input can only handle/use 10A input (120W).

It’s also important to know the total voltage and amperage that are going to be sent through the wires, especially when choosing extension cables.

The WindyNation MC4 extension cables (click to view on Amazon) I use and recommend come in different sizes.

This wire size calculator (click to view Solar Cable Gauge Calculator) will tell you what gauge wire you should use depending on amps, distance, and acceptable voltage loss.

Renogy has also listed the NEC maximum current for different wire sizes below the calculator. But you also need to make sure that the specific cable you buy can handle the total amperage.

Connecting more panels also means that you need to be aware of how many amps the MC4 to Anderson/8mm adapter can handle, so you need to calculate the total amperage of the panels you plan on wiring together.

Which Yeti model do you have?

If you have a Yeti power station with a sticker on the front that says “Never Exceed 22V”, you can only connect panels in parallel.

If you have one of the newer models (1500X, 3000X, 6000X) and the sticker on the front says “Never Exceed 50V”, you can do a series connection with most 12V panels.

Again, the voltage it’s talking about is the VMP voltage, which we need to be aware of even if you only connect one panel as we saw in my examples earlier.

A parallel connection

What wiring in parallel means, is that the positive wires meet each other separate from the negative. This will add the amperage together, but not the volts. This is done with a connector like this (click to view on Amazon).

Plug each positive wire into the same Y branch adapter, and then plug the connector into the positive (red) female on the adapter we looked at before.

Make sure that the Y branch you choose can handle the total amperage of your panels.

Then you take both negative wires, plug those into the negative (black) male on the adapter that you’ll plug into the Goal Zero.

If you want to connect three panels, this is the adapter you’ll need (click to view on Amazon).

If you want to connect four panels, this is the adapter you’ll need (click to view on Amazon).

As an example, if we take two 100W panels that each output 6A at 18V during the day, a parallel connection will output 12A at 18V.

Since that’s above 10A, you should use the Anderson input instead of the 8mm. Goal Zero says it’s alright to exceed the amps as long as you don’t exceed the voltage, but why waste the extra amps if you have an Anderson input available?

A series connection

When we combine panels in series, the VMP voltage is very important.

If a single 12V 100W panel outputs 18V, we’re only going to be able to connect two before we exceed the 50V limit. Two panels equal 36V, three equal 54V.

If you’ve checked the VMP and made sure that the total voltage will stay below 50V, you can do a series connection by taking the positive MC4 male connector from the first panel and connecting it to the negative MC4 female connector on the second panel.

You’re going to end up with a positive MC4 male connector from one panel, and a negative MC4 female connector from the second panel.

Now you can connect these two wires to the MC4 to Anderson adapter (click to view on Amaz0n).

To be 100% sure that your panels are compatible I recommend contacting Goal Zero before making any connection.

A series-parallel connection

With a series-parallel connection, you do both by doing two pairs of series with four panels, then combining the two pairs with a parallel connection.

If you would like to do this, please leave a comment and I will help you out. Tell me what panels you’re planning on using and which Yeti you have.

How Many Watts Can The Goal Zero Lithium Power Stations Handle?

It depends on which Yeti you have.

The older Yeti lithium models can handle 360W via the built-in PWM charge controller, and 360W via the optional MPPT expansion module. Both the 8mm and Anderson inputs can be used at the same time.

On the newer Yeti X power stations (click to view on Amazon) (1000X and larger) you can only use one input at a time, and it’s the port receiving the highest voltage that is going to be active.

The Anderson input (Goal Zero calls it High Power Port) can handle up to 50A, or 600W. The 8mm input can handle up to 10A (120W).

If you purchase the MPPT expansion module (click to view on Amazon) and install it on your Yeti 1000X or larger, you can add an additional 360W.

Even though the max input of the new Yeti X is 600W, Goal Zero recommends using up to 800 watts of total solar panels.

Remember that the 8mm input only allows 10A (120W) input, so if you’re connecting more than that you should use the High Power port.

How Do I Max The Input Of The Yeti X Models?

I have heard of some issues with the latest models not being able to go over 400W of input, so I recommend calling Goal Zero to get the latest info on this before doing any of the below.

You can connect up to 800W of solar by connecting four Boulder 200W Solar Panels (click to view on Amazon) with the Goal Zero High Power Port combiner (click to view on Amazon).

If you purchase the optional MPPT expansion module (click to view on Amazon) you could add an additional two Boulder 200 watt solar panels.

To increase the input further, you can get a USB C PD charger like this (click to view on Amazon) and plug it into the USB C PD port on your Yeti.

Best Extension Cable Solution For Goal Zero Yeti?

I use MC4 connectors to extend my cables.

WindyNation sells different lengths (click to view on Amazon) with both 10 and 12 gauge cables.

10 gauge is recommended for up to 30A, and 12 gauge for up to 20A.

You still need to check that the extension cable you’re buying can handle the total amperage and voltage of your panels.

For an 8mm extension cable, I recommend the Graybull 20ft 8mm extension cable (click to view on Amazon).

Can You Charge The Yeti With AC And Solar At The Same Time?

The older Goal Zero Yetis can, but the newer Yeti X models that only allow one input at a time can’t.

You can, however, charge the new Yeti X models with USB C PD while charging in other ways.

Have any more questions about connecting a third-party solar panel to a Goal Zero Yeti? Leave a comment below.

by Jesse
Jesse has always had an interest in camping, technology, and the outdoors. Who knew that growing up in a small town in Sweden with endless forests and lakes would do that to you?

208 thoughts on “How To Connect Third-Party Solar Panels To Goal Zero Yeti”

  1. Thanks for this! I currently have a Renogy 160W flexible solar panel connected by MC4 extension cables to a Goal Zero Anderson power pole connector cable entering my MPPT input on my Goal Zero Li 10000 and although I’m showing 20V on multimeter coming out of Anderson pole connector, when I plug into GZ MPPT, the blue light comes on however I am registering NO input? Ditto if I bypass the MPPT and plug directly into the PMW input on the GZ? Powers from AC. Next step is to call GZ but any ideas?

    • Hello Sabrina,

      I assume you’re letting the cable be in for about 10 seconds to register and that the battery isn’t at 100%?

      The only thing I can think of to try would be to reset the screen by holding the units and info buttons for a couple of seconds until you see the screen react.

      Hope it’ll work out.

  2. Hello! Would really appreciate your post on “bypassing the solar charge controller” to use the Renogy suitcase panels with the Goal Zero…

  3. Thank YOU for posting this!!!

    I’ve been looking at the Renogy 160W flexible panel to replace the boulder suitcase (or in addition to it) for my GZ yeti 1250.

  4. This is great! I’m looking at purchasing the GZ Lithium 1000W for our van, and wanted a little more affordable panels than the GZ ones! I don’t understand how the Renogy v GZ panels have such a significant price difference… (here in Canada, at leas…)
    Question, do you have affiliate links on your site? I will use them if so, if not I’ll shop around a bit more.

    • Nice! Yeah, the price difference is huge here in the states as well… Glad I can help people connect cheaper (but great) panels.

      Yes, all our links to Amazon are affiliate links.

      Thank you Nick, safe travels!

  5. I’ve seen multiple people hooking up panels with a VOC in the 22.6 to 22.8 range to Yeti’s and they don’t seem to have any issues even though the VOC max is supposedly 22.0.

    Do you think that extra .6-.8 VOC really matters?

    • Hello Kevin, great question!

      The latest information I have is that the voltage limit is actually talking about the Vmp. So it’s OK to go over on the Voc, but not the Vmp. This makes a solar panel like the Renogy 160W compatible with the Yeti Lithiums.

  6. I’m new to all this but I’m getting it figured out. Extremely helpful article! On the last paragraph “Best Extension Cable Solution For Goal Zero Yeti?” can you clarify that one MC4 extension cord will do the trick or do I need to order two – one for positive one for negative?


    • Hello Kurt,

      You’ll need two, one for positive and one for negative. The specific one I linked to is sold in pair, so you get a black and a red cable.

      Thanks for your comment

      • I had missed that detail originally. Thanks for all the info. Cables and adapters arrived and work perfectly. The system is purring along nicely – with a huge assist from you. Thanks Again! Excellent how-to.

  7. I had the same problem Sabrina mentioned a couple of posts above. I wonder what she found out? I have the Renogy 160watt flexible panel and the GZ Yeti. Using the Anderson pole and cables recommended, I get “0”input. Is there a way to check at each junction with a voltage gage to locate the problem? I bought everything brand new. I remember reading somewhere that even with the colored wires matching you could have reversed polarity.

  8. Hi,

    s it worth it to get a great price (say $150) on a 340 watt 51 VOC solar panel and then send it through a charge controller to my Yeti lithium 1000? Is it risky? How is it done?

    • Do you mean adding an additional solar charge controller? Since the Yeti 1000 lithium can’t handle more than 22V input you shouldn’t connect a panel with a voltage that high.

  9. Can I simultaneously charge my Goal Zero Yeti 1000 with a GZ boulder 100W BC connected in the 8mm input and a 260W (under 22V) third party solar panel connected in the Anderson Power Pole?

  10. I am planning on hooking up a Renogy 100w monocrystalline panel solar starter kit to a GZ Lithium 400, would you recommend bypassing the built in GZ controller and using the one from Renogy? I am only using one panel and the primary use for the solar/battery setup would be to power an ARB 37qt fridge as well as charging camera batteries and a laptop.


    • Hello Kent, sorry for the late answer.

      I would get an adapter (mc4 to 8mm) and plug the panel straight into the Yeti. I don’t think you can bypass the charge controller on the Yeti 400 lithium without opening the box up which might void the warranty.

      Since you wouldn’t need the Renogy charge controller, you can just purchase a single panel without the kit and if needed buy a mounting kit for it.

      Thank you for your comment, let me know if you have any more questions or if I didn’t understand your question correctly.

  11. Might be a dumb question, the GZ Lithium 400 says its compatible with the Boulder 200 portable panels. The panel specs state it outputs “Anderson Powerpole 14-22V, up to 14A (200W max)”

    This contradicts the 10A maximum Ive seen stated for the GZ Lithium 400.

    Any idea which it is?

    Im currently looking at a 200W panel setup that will output around 11A max.

    • Hello Trevor,

      You’re right; it’s confusing. The Yeti 400 Lithium maxes out at 120 watts input. You can connect the Boulder 200 to the Yeti, but you won’t see an input higher than 120 watts on the Yeti. Note that you will need an Anderson power pole to 8mm adapter if you plan on using the Boulder 200 with the Yeti 400.

      You’re right about the maximum amperage on the Yeti 400. It’s more important that you don’t exceed the voltage than the amperage though. Goal Zero says that their charge controllers limit the amps as long as the voltage is below the limit.

  12. Hey – appreciate the tips. If I want to hook up LED lighting with dimmer switches using a Renogy + GoalZero 1400 setup, what additional components would I need if any?

    • Hello Nick,

      I would need some more details to help you more. Are you talking about hardwiring lights or using a light strip? If hardwiring 12V lights, it will be a bit trickier.

      If it’s a light strip with an AC plug, it will plug right in. You’d have to turn on the inverter to run them.

  13. Looking at purchasing 3 Renogy 100W panels. Anyone see any reason not to cut off the Renogy MC4 connectors, tie them parallel into a single Anderson Power Pole Connector pigtail and plug into the a Yeti1250? Otherwise I’d have to buy a 3-1 MC4 splitter then attach an MC4-Anderson adapter.

    Basically, spend $50 on adapters for plug and play, or $10 for a pigtail and 5 minutes of wire work.

    • Hello Mike,

      True, I guess you could do that, but you might need an additional wire between your panels and the Anderson Power Pole connector since it wouldn’t fit three wires.

  14. Hi,

    Can i chain Rockpals Foldable 100W solar panel with Goal Zero Boulder 50W solar panels in parallel to achieve an equivalent of 150W output (similar to 3 x Boulder 50W panels)?

    My solar generator is Goal Zero 400 Lithium using 8mm input connector.

    • Hello Razman,
      Yes, you can, but there might be some loss if the panels don’t have the same Vmp rating. So it would most likely not be as efficient as 3 x Boulder 50W panels.

  15. So if I want to connect two Renogy 160 Watt 12 Volt to a Goal Zero Yeti 1400 I need to connect both positive male mc4’s to the negative female y adapter, both female mc4’s to the positive male y adapter. Then connect the negative female part of the y adapter to the negative male of the instaboost cable and the positive male part of the y adapter to the positve female of the instaboost cable. And then plug the anderson part of the instaboost cable into the MPPT solar charge controller, which will then power the yeti 1400 under 22v? Hopefully that wasn’t too confusing, did i do this right?

  16. Okay, so if I have two renology 100 watts panels, I need to connect them with the BougeRV parallel connector. Then use the mc4 to Anderson pole connector. If I got the MPPT addition, would the mc4 to Anderson pole connector go into that and then the MPPT into the yeti?
    Each 100 watt renology panel (the ones I’m looking at) say the IMP is 5.72A, but I’m seeing that you’re saying the MPPT doesn’t like anything more than 10A. Would this not work? I am going to be using the mc4 to Anderson adapter.

    Also when I install, where should the wires (connecting the two panels, any others) go? Can I leave the wires connecting the two panels under the panels or do I need to drill holes in the van and somehow put them inside? Thank you.

    One last question! Sorry, I keep thinking of questions as I’m figuring this out. This article has been extremely helpful.

    Trying to figure out the size for the extension cable. I’m seeing you recommend (from what I remember, without scrolling back up there) 10 or 12AWG for 30 or 40A. What amps are you referring to exactly? Would that be the amps coming from the solar panels? I’m using two 100w renology panels and I think the amps come out to around 11, so would I just go for the 12AWG (assuming you mean just amps coming from the panels) or would I need to go even smaller size?

    Also (!) which cables would be passing through the roof exactly? Once I connect the two panels, would I then pass the adapter through the roof?
    Would the order be (if I go with the MPPT)
    1. Adapter to join the two panels (pass through van roof)
    2. Extension cable
    3. MPPT
    4. Anderson Pole (into the goal zero)

    • Hello C,
      Let’s see if I can answer all your questions in one comment.

      Would the mc4 to Anderson pole connector go into that and then the MPPT into the Yeti?
      Yes, the MC4 to APP adapter is plugged into the Yeti MPPT module, which is installed on the Yeti.
      but I’m seeing that you’re saying the MPPT doesn’t like anything more than 10A
      If you would use the 8mm input (the MPPT module has two 8mm inputs and one Anderson pole input), the limit is 10A. But since you’ll be using the Anderson port which can handle up to 325W on the MPPT module, you will be fine with two 100W panels.
      where should the wires (connecting the two panels, any others) go?
      The MC4 Y Branch adapters I recommend (the BougeRV) are waterproof and can be left outside on the roof. I have two 100W panels on my trailer roof and the MC4 Y branch is sitting next to the panels. Just make sure it doesn’t have a lot of slack so it can flop around while you’re driving. Sure, you could drill more holes and pull the adapters inside (if the solar panel wires can reach), but it’s not necessary.
      What amps are you referring to exactly (when talking about extension cable ratings)? Would that be the amps coming from the solar panels?
      Correct, the more amperage the solar panels generate, the bigger the cables. 12AWG cable would be fine for two 100W panels.
      Which cables would be passing through the roof exactly?
      The adapter can stay on the roof. It will only be the MC4 extension cable (two wires) going through the roof. The extension cable plugs into the MC4 to Anderson adapter, then into the Goal Zero MPPT. So the MPPT is the last step. The Goal Zero MPPT module is installed on the Goal Zero Yeti (all you have to do is connect two cables). Note that the MPPT module is only supported with the Yeti 1000 and 1400, and comes preinstalled on the Yeti 3000.

      Let me know if you have any more questions.

  17. Really appreciate your responses. I do have another question. Would I be able to run a 45w 12v fridge as well as a 12v maxxfan at the same time?

    • Sorry, I should have specified that I’m wondering if there are two plugs that would accommodate these two things. I did the power calculations and they should be able to run together (if I’m correct about that.)

    • It depends on which Yeti you’re planning on buying. The Yeti 1000 and up can do it, but not the Yeti 400 lithium.
      The problem with running 12V fridges with the Yeti is the unregulated 12V ports, so you’ll need the Goal Zero Yeti lithium 12V regulated cable. Without this adapter, you’ll have issues running a 12V fridge with the Yeti because the 12V port voltage will depend on the battery’s state of charge.

      Goal Zero is going to release new Yeti lithium power stations this year with regulated 12V outputs, but the only one released so far is the Yeti 200X.

      The Maxxfan comes with bare wires on the end, so you would have to get a cigarette lighter adapter and wire that to the fan, then you can plug the cigarette lighter plug into the Yeti. You will probably need some copper battery wire to extend the cable so it will reach.

      They’re both ok to run at the same time, each 12V port can output up to 120W.

      • Any recommendations on the cigarette lighter adapter and what kind and gauge of copper battery wire to get? Thank you!

        • Hello Amanda,

          The Yeti 1000 doesn’t have a regulated 12V cigarette port, which is why you need a Yeti Lithium 12V regulated cable to use a 12V fridge with it. Most 12V fridges have a low-voltage cut-off which means that it will turn off when the Yeti reaches a certain battery voltage/percentage.

          The regulated cable is plugged into the 12V Anderson Output, which will leave the built-in cigarette plug open for the fan.

          Let me know if you have any more questions.


  18. My goal zero 3000 originally came with mppt unit installed. I had to remove it to install the kit that allows for charging from the vehicles alternator (YETI LINK) . Since that mppt unit with the Anderson power pole input is no longer there, is it OK to just connect a solar panel to the ANDERSON input that is built into the goal zero without any additional charge controller? With the vehicle’s battery/alternator connected to the rear input of the YETI LINK, the 8mm input on the front of the YETI LINK does not seem to allow any wattage in.

    • Hello Justin,

      Yes, the input on the left is a built-in PWM charge controller. You should not add another charge controller between the solar panel and this input. The Anderson port on it can handle up to 360W.

      It’s also ok to plug panels into the Link while it’s plugged in, and those panels should charge both your vehicle battery and the Yeti at the same time when your vehicle isn’t running. I’d need to know more to figure out what the problem could be, like what panel you’re using.


      • Thank you!! This is a fantastic source of info you’ve put together here. I have no panels yet. I just plugged one of the wall chargers into the 8mm on the front of the LINK and got no response. Maybe it allows solar panels but not a wall charger through that 8mm on the front of the LINK? Vehicle was off and there were no other inputs hooked up at the time.

        • I contacted Goal Zero and was told the Link will never show any input on the Yeti when using the front 8mm port (which can handle up to 150W input btw).

          It will charge the Yeti and the vehicle’s battery with either solar/wall charger but the only visible indication would be the state of charge percentage on the Yeti increasing.

  19. Hello there!!

    I’m thinking about extension cables and what effects the length will have on power loss. Looking for your sage experience on the matter.

    I will be using:
    Renogy 100w mono briefcase.
    GZ Yeti 400 Lithium.

    I assume that extending the MC4 will give a faster charge than extending the 8mm due to the cable’s AWG? Or am I overthinking this and the difference will be negligible??

    Piggybacking off that thought; I want to be able to park in the shade some days and move my solar panel from the roof out into the sun. Do you recommend using a 10′ extension for the van and having a 30′ extension to swap in when parking in shade? Or if I just use a 30′ and coil up the excess while the panels on the van, would there be a noticeable loss in charge??

    Am I just splitting hairs here?? Thanks!!

    • Hello Chris,

      You’re correct that using a lower wire gauge would reduce the power loss. It’s also important to use a wire gauge that’s safe for the total amperage.

      I can’t give you exact numbers, but I can give you some estimates. I’m not an expert on this, so if somebody with more experience would like to correct or add to my answer, please do so.

      Goal Zero’s 30ft 8mm extension cord is 16 AWG and has a ~11% voltage drop, the 15ft version has a ~5.5% loss. If you connect two 15ft cables, the loss would be even higher because most of the voltage drop happens between connectors, the more connectors, the higher the loss.

      If you would use a 30ft 12 AWG wire, there would be about a ~4% voltage drop. A 30ft 10 AWG would be about ~2.5%. A 10ft 10 AWG would lose less than a percentage point.

      If you would coil up a 30ft 10 AWG cable, you’d lose ~1.5% versus using a 10ft 10 AWG cable. It’s hard to say how big the difference would be in watts.

      A lot of numbers there, hope I didn’t make it more confusing. Since the power loss isn’t significant if you’re using 10 AWG wire, I would do what would be the most convenient. If you’re going to combine several panels it’s going to be more important what wire gauge you use, since you need to make sure it can handle the amperage.

  20. I have a yeti 150 I am borrowing, but I plan to get something bigger later. Can I charge the 150 with a third party 100W panel? I am seeing different opinions.

    I am also hoping to use the 150 to charge a 12v battery for my camper. Can I use the 6mm to alligator clamp to do that? Or should I use the wall outlet plug to a charger to do that? My concern with the 6mm to alligator clamp is I do not know when that battery is charged. Any thoughts are appreciated.

    • Hello Ralph,

      Yes, you can charge the Yeti 150 with a third-party panel. It will only be able to input 60W (5A) at most but with a 100W panel you could max it out during peak sun hours. Since it has an 8mm input you need this adapter (click to view on Amazon).

      The Yeti 150 has a 12V battery, so I believe it would recharge a camper 12V battery with the 6mm to alligator adapter, and since it wouldn’t output 18V like a solar panel it wouldn’t hurt it (I would call Goal Zero to confirm though). Based on the features of the 6mm adapter, it sounds like that’s what it’s made for.

      An alternative would be to get a solar panel like this (click to view on Amazon) that can charge both a 12V RV camper battery and a power station at the same time. You’d use the adapter I linked above to connect it to the Yeti 150.

  21. Thank you for this posting! I am new to using solar and have been hunting how to connect the Renogy solar panel I purchased to my Yeti 1000 system.

  22. I’m just getting into this stuff, so bear with me while I have visions of 18 adapter cables dancing in my head. And of course the day after I did my taxes. Ouch.

    This is a home only setup. I live in California where the electric company hasn’t maintained its lines and they’ve caused big fires during wind storms, so they shut the power off, usually with a few days notice, although it also goes out for half a day here and there for no apparent reason. Its been a dry winter, and we’ll have lots more dead trees and whatnot around the lines, so I’m expecting a bad year.

    I didn’t want to do a gas generator, too much maintenance, setting it up, noise, etc. So I saw the goal zero yeti 1000 and the 100w goal zero nomad on costco for as I’ve learned, way too much money. $1300. But I got it and tinkered with it. I’ll just need it to keep a pretty efficient refrigerator going and maybe run a tv so I have something to do when the power is out.

    It charges fine from the wall and from the panel, but I’m a little worried about keeping that fridge going during a few cloudy days and figured the solution was to add another panel or two if possible. I read your article and see 100w and even larger 120 and 150/160 watt panels for <$100. My neighbor also has a roof full of panels but no powerwall type setup.

    So my probably dumb questions that perhaps you'll be able to help me with.

    One is adding a second and perhaps 3rd panel to my yeti 1000. It has the stock pwm controller, not the mppt. I saw some reviews on getting the $100 mppt controller and many said it really didn't boost the efficiency very much.

    I then saw I can get a 3 or 4 to 1 8mm combiner cable and use more goal zero panels or those that support an 8mm connector (looks like they come with a bag full of connectors of different types). However those are usually more expensive than the renology/hqst panels you listed and by a lot. Looks like some of them have the ability to directly charge usb devices, which I don't need and maybe that's why more $$$?

    So what would be the way to add a renology panel in addition to the nomad panel I already have to get two panels and would 3 work? I figured if I got everything to 8mm and used the 8mm combiner that'd do it, but I keep seeing the power pole type connectors used, which I guess would mean converting the nomad's 8mm to a power pole connector, then connecting those power pole setups to a combiner and into the power pole input on the yeti 1000?

    And then the question I already know is dumb and probably dangerous. If we were to get a week long power outage, any way I could bring some of the neighbors solar array from the existing inverter to the Yeti, and both of us could have a long ac extension cord and run some things in both houses from the Yeti? Is there something we could pre-install on his system to make it more or less plug and play?

    I also thought about getting another battery like the Jackery 500 and one of their panels, rather than adding panels to the Yeti. Bit more expensive but then I'd have two separate systems and could charge one with no load on it while the other was charging and running things in the house.

    None of the panels would be mounted by the way, I'd just be setting them out in the yard as between trees and my neighbors house between me and south, I'd have to move them around over the course of the day to maintain full sun.

    • Hello Thomas,

      Sorry for the late answer, let me know if I have misunderstood any part of your questions. I’ll give you some information, so let me know if you have more questions.

      First of all, the Goal Zero 8mm combiner has an Anderson Power Pole on the other end of it, so you can use both a Nomad panel with the 8mm connector and plug third-party panels into the Anderson Power Pole connector.

      The Yeti 1000 PWM charge controller can handle a total of 360W input. At around 70W per 100W panel, that would mean a maximum of 5 100W panels. The MPPT charge controller can handle 325W input.

      The MPPT charge controller is much more efficient than the built-in PWM, especially during rough conditions like the morning/evening hours when the sun is low on the horizon, and on cloudy days. I do, however, agree that it’s not as efficient as a high-quality standalone MPPT charge controller in a large solar build. With what you’re planning, I would highly recommend it.

      To add more Renogy panels, here is what you would need:
      Renogy 100W panel with a Vmp rating below 22V (Yetis maximum input voltage).
      A pair of MC4 Y Branches, this combines two panels in parallel. There are larger ones if you want to use three/four panels.
      An MC4 to APP adapter which will be the adapter you plug into the Goal Zero Yeti.
      In addition, you might want some MC4 extension cables so you can store the Yeti in a waterproof space.

      You’ll take one of the MC4 Y Branches and connect both positive wires from the solar panels to it, then take the second MC4 Y Branch and connect the negatives to it. This keeps the positive separate from negative. Then you’ll plug the MC4 Y Branches male and female connectors into the MC4 to APP adapter, which would then be plugged into the Yeti. Note that you have to rotate the Anderson Power Pole connectors on the adapter, which is easy to do.

      To answer whether you can connect to his solar array or not, I would need some more information about his setup. Like panel size, Vmp ratings, and the size of the system. You would need access to the wires coming straight from the solar panels. It’s possible that his panels are larger than 100W and that he is using a 240V inverter.

      Getting another power station is definitely something to consider, but I recommend one with an MPPT charge controller built-in that you can use the Nomad panel with. Goal Zero is going to release new models this year, so if you feel like you can wait a couple of weeks/months that might be worth it.

      • when you said ” Yeti 1000 PWM charge controller can handle a total of 360W input. At around 70W per 100W panel ”

        why couldn’t it get to 100W ? when it got 30 amp max ? if charge only 1 panel . what. would cause the lost in power ? assuming wiring and full sunny day ? compared to regular MPPT controller and normal batter of 100 Ah , with 100 W panel and 30 amp charger controller , it would normally give out at full 100 W when it’s sunny out.


        • Hello Jeannie,

          Solar panels aren’t 100% efficient unfortunately and a 100W panel will not generate 100W during peak sun hours.

          Most 100W monocrystalline solar panels generate between 70-80W during peak sun hours, so to reach the 360W maximum input of the PWM charge controller you would need at least 4-5 100W panels.

          Let me know if you have any more questions.

  23. Hi Jesse,

    I bought that MC4 to Anderson cable and although the female cable is red, the MC4 connector has a – sign on it and doesnt work. Is there another link to the right one because I cant find it anywhere on amazon.


  24. I just ordered the following. I think it’s everything I need for a home system to keep the Yeti 1400 going. It’s basically a back up generator system for daily consumption if the power goes down. I spoke to GoalZero and they actually recommended the 160 Watt Renogy. Hopefully, I did everything right and got the right parts. Thanks for all your help! Could not have done it without you. Much appreciated. Thanks, Jay

    Item Qty
    Goal Zero Yeti 1400 1
    Renogy Solar Panel 160 Watt 12 Volt Monocrystalline 4
    Goal Zero 25A Yeti Power Supply 1
    Goal Zero Yeti Lithium MPPT Solar Charging Optimizer 1
    Eco-Worthy Adjustable Solar Panel Tilt Mount (41″) 4
    Powerpole extension cable (Gauge: 10, Length: 25 ft.) 2
    iGreely Connector Solar Panel Cable Kit (Goal Zero) 2
    BougeRV Connectors Y Branch Parallel Adapter 2

    • Wow, Jay, I am jealous! That’s a nice setup!

      I assume the plan is to use both the PWM and the MPPT inputs, so it looks like you know what you’re doing!

  25. Hey again. I got my solar panels connected to my goal zero! Success!

    I just have a question (I called goal zero but they didn’t answer today) about connecting the maxxfan. I already have my fridge hooked up to the cigarette lighter so I’m just wondering what would be best to hook my maxxfan up with? The Anderson pole? If so, do I just get some Anderson pole connectors and connect those to the maxx fan wire? Would it go into another 12v output? I’m not sure what the other outputs are referred to as.

    Thanks for all your help. Wouldn’t be almost done with the van if it wasn’t for this site!

    • Nice!

      Yes, you could do that. I recommend using the Goal Zero 12V regulated cable if you’re powering a 12V fridge/freezer though. That cable would use the Anderson Power Pole output, so then you could install a Carviya cigarette plug on the wires from the fan and plug it into the Yeti cigarette port. Just cut off the ring terminals on the Carviya plug, strip some wire off, and connect the wires together with some twist-on wire connectors.

  26. Hi,

    I have a 330 wP panel that is feeding into a microinvertor into my house AC, lowering my electricity bill by slowing down the meter and sometimes even reversing it.

    When the grid goes down the invertor is useless, but I would like to use the panel to charge my Goal Zero 50’s and the 200X that is underway. Only problem is the panel has maximum power voltage Vmp of 33.8 which is a bit to high for the Goal Zero’s. A trick that seems to work is connecting two MC4 to 8m in series and then charging Goal Zero’s in serial.

    I didn’t feel like testing it too long, but it looked like the two Goal Zero’s where charging.

    Can you shed a light on this before I do a test in full sun light for a few hours.

    • Hello Hans,

      I’m sorry, I don’t have any experience with that so I can’t give you any advice. I assume it could be done with an MPPT charge controller, but I recommend calling or emailing Goal Zero directly and asking them. They have a very helpful support team.


  27. I am SO glad I found your site!!!! I am completely ignorant of this stuff. I have a gz3000 lithium with the mppt?? I also have a 200w gz briefcase. Can I use renogy 100’s ?? I would like to add 4 of them if I can?? SoOOOO much less expensive and better reviews… I should have done more homework.

    Any help is GREATLY appreciated!! If you had paypal I would send a thank you… I will buy from your amazon site I now see you have!! AWESOME!

    • Thanks Melissa, I’m happy to help out!

      Yes, you can use four 100W panels. But you will have to plug the Goal Zero briefcase into the PWM charge controller input on the left side of your Yeti 3000 since the MPPT on the right can only input up to 325W to the Yeti battery. You can use both charge controllers at the same time though.

      Here is what you would need (Amazon affiliate links):
      Renogy 100W panel x4
      MC4 Y Branch 1 to 4
      MC4 to Anderson PowerPole adapter

      Then you will most likely need extension cables, and I would recommend using MC4 extension cables like the Windynation. Choose your desired length, but stick to 10 Gauge wire.

      If you want to mount them to a vehicle you’ll also need mounting brackets.

      You will connect the positive MC4 wires from all panels to one of the Y branch adapters, then connect all the negative wires to the second Y branch adapter. There is only one way to connect them, so it’s easy to do.

      Then you will connect the MC4 extension cables to the MC4 Y branch adapter, and you want the one with the positive wires to be connected to the red extension cable. Then the branch with the negatives to the black extension cable.

      Lastly, you will connect the extension cables to the MC4 To Anderson Powerpole adapter. You’re going to have to rearrange the orientation of the Anderson adapter to fit the Yeti, but it’s just a matter of pulling the Anderson connectors apart from each other and sliding them back in the right way.

      Please let me know if you have any more questions.


  28. I own a 1250 (220v version). Does it have a charge controller? I’d like to connect a wind turbine, but most units produce 400 watts, well over the 160w max. What happens if the input is exceeded?

    • Yes, it has a built-in controller. You should use the Anderson Powerpole input if possible which has a 320W (20A) maximum.

      It’s fine to exceed the input wattage but not the voltage (16-48V on the Yeti 1250).

  29. Hello,

    I appreciate all the information; however, I need specific recommendations for the equipment have. I purchased a Goal Zero Yeti 1250, which has performed very well on a single charge during short trips. I am in a position now where I am taking extended trips and will need to rely on the solar power to keep the Yeti charged. When I purchased the Yeti, it was advertised with a Zamp solar panel, which I purchased (Zamp Solar Controller/Battery Charger Model #ZS-10AW/ZS-15AW). The panel and the Yeti do not speak to each other. I have made several attempts with both companies to resolve the issue; and after purchasing hundreds of dollars on multiple adapters the panel still does not talk to the Yeti. Do you have any suggestions?


    • Hello Rachel,

      It sounds like the issue is that you’re using two solar charge controllers.

      You mention that you have a Zamp solar panel, but the Zamp Solar Controller is a solar charge controller. What solar panel do you have? Is it one of Zamp’s portable suitcase panels that has cables going from the solar panel to the charge controller, then cables coming out of the charge controller?

      The solar charge controller is placed between the solar panel and the battery to regulate the voltage to make sure the battery doesn’t overcharge, and the Yeti 1250 has a solar charge controller built-in, so you shouldn’t use the Zamp solar controller between the Yeti and the solar panel.

      The solution would be to disconnect the cables from the charge controller on the solar panel and put a pair of MC4 connectors on the wires coming directly from the solar panels. Put the MC4 male connector on the positive wire, and MC4 female connector on the negative wire. When you disconnect the wires from the charge controller, make note of which is positive and which is negative (I put a piece of tape on the positive wire unless it’s already colored red).

      Then you would connect the MC4 connectors to an MC4 to 8mm adapter and plug the adapter into your Yeti.

      Let me know if you have any questions.


  30. My head is currently spinning but I do believe with a few more reading it will become much more clear ;-).
    My question is: What import ports on the Yeti 1000 have a built in controller?
    The 8mm and the Anderson for solar?
    The 8mm inside the lid?
    I do understand the 110 input at least.
    Another question while I am here. I have a 160w third party panel that reads (with a meter attached) at 27v at peak. Should not the controllers limit that? That part really confuses me if in fact I plug that 160w into the 8mm. However it reads no input.
    Thanks, Dale

    • Hello Dale, sorry for the late reply.

      Every input on the Yeti 1000 is connected to the charge controller, including the 8mm port under the lid.

      When it comes to your panel, if it doesn’t show any input it’s probably outputting a voltage too high. The Yeti charge controllers can handle up to 22V Vmp, and can’t limit voltages higher than that. Obviously you also need to make sure the polarity is correct.

      Let me know if you have any more questions.

  31. I have a GZ Yeti 400 non-lithium-ion. Am interesting in powering with solar in small patio. Rich Solar seems to have recently released a 100w (and 60W) “portable” panel (kickstand included, look like a Boulder 100 non-suitcase) with Anderson powerpole connector instead of MC4. Are there any reasons to buy a panel with MC4 or Anderson Powerpole? Safer, better weatherproof, efficiency, etc? I have found a couple of 14 gauge APP to 8mm adapters online so far. Am not sure if the GZ version is compatible since GZ use vertical aligned APP and fingerproofed APP end housing, the Rich Solar panel photo is not detailed enough yet.

    Thank you for this great info!

  32. Like most people, I am blown away by the education here, thank you Jesse.

    I have a Yeti Li 400.

    I recently purchased:

    1. SolarEnz Solar Connector to 8mm Adapter Cable

    2. Renogy 100w flex/monocrystaline/solar panel

    I would like an extension: Per one of the threads, I should purchase a pair of: MC4 extension cables like the Wyndnation?

    This is the best forum!


    P.S. I would love a YouTube video of you explaining electricity and how that works with solar or any topic you choose.

  33. I have simple 7watt panel with aligator clips normally for 12volt use. . not sure if it is worth adapting for use to 8mm connector to GZ 400 non-lithium yeti. connector costs may be more than the panel. thoughts?

  34. hi Jesse, I really like your site. It’s so helpful! I have a few questions:
    I have a GoalZero Yeti 1000 and I want to use 2 100W solar panels to charge my Yeti using its Anderson port input.

    1) Can I use 10awg 45Amp extension cable to connect to Anderson input port? The Anderson port input is rated only 30A max.

    2) Which 10awg 45A wire do you recommend to buy? I’d like to make one 25ft or 30ft for Anderson connector type input that’s going to last for outdoor usage.

    3) If using 2 or 3 solar panels (Nomad + Renogy), should I use 8mm Combiner-to-Anderson from Yeti, connect all solar panels to combiner and connect combiner to Yeti’s Anderson port? Or should I just connect 1 solar to 8mm input and connect 2nd solar to Anderson port?

    Thank you so much for your help.

    • Hello Steve, thank you for your comment.

      1. Yes, the 45Amp specification is just how much amperage the cable can handle based on gauge, not how much it’s going to be sending over at all times. If you connect three 100W panels you won’t even reach 20A, but having a low gauge wire is important especially if the cable is long, to limit the voltage drop.

      2. I use and recommend Windynation MC4 extension cables that come with MC4 connectors preinstalled on both ends. I wire my panels together with an MC4 Y branch, then connect the extension cables to the MC4 to Anderson adapter. I’ve taped my extension cables together with electric tape, and they’ve been outside for a year now and gone through both rain- and snowstorms without issues.

      3. I wouldn’t use a combiner, just connect them to different ports. If the panels aren’t exactly the same, there is more to lose than to gain from combining them all in parallel. Connect the panels with the most total amperage to the Anderson PowerPole port and the single panel to the 8mm port.

      Let me know if you have any more questions.


      • hi Jesse,
        Thank you.

        2) Do you recommend MC4 extension cables or Anderson extension cables of 25ft? It seems like there are more MC4 extension cables out there and they’re a little cheaper than the Anderson ones.

        3) I already bought MPPT module. have 1 Nomad 100W panel (8mm output) and plan to buy 2 Renogy/HQST 100w panels (MC4 output).
        -Are you saying I should connect my Nomad panel (8mm) to 8mm port? Which 10awg 8mm extension best to use?
        -Then parallel-wire the 2 Renogy (MC4) panels with “MC4 Y branch” and connect with MC4 extension and MC4-to-Anderson to Yeti MPPT’s Anderson port?

        4) So you don’t recommend using the 8mm-to-Anderson or Anderson-to-Anderson 4X Combiner at all?
        I saw your other post where you mentioned you have 4 Renogy solar panels. How did you configure/connect them all to the MPPT module?

        Thank you again, Jesse.

        • 2. Both work, I just chose MC4 because they were cheaper. I also like having the MC4 to Anderson adapter by the Goal Zero Yeti instead of by the panel, to have one less connection outside to worry about.
          3. Nice! Yes, connect the Nomad to one of the 8mm ports on the MPPT. I don’t know any 10awg 8mm cables, but one like the SolarEnz 8mm 30ft extension cable will do without too much voltage drop (less than 1% drop).
          Then yes, correct on the Renogy panel connection.
          4. Since it’s not neccessary and you’ll be using Nomad and Renogy panels that don’t have the exact same specifications, I wouldn’t connect them together and instead use two of the three ports you have on the MPPT charge controller. I have a Goal Zero MC4 combiner but when I use it I see 10-30W less input than when connecting the solar panel pairs separately.

          My Renogy panels are set up the same way. Two panels on my roof are connected in parallel with an MC4 branch, then wired via an extension cable to an MC4 to Anderson adapter which is plugged into the Anderson port on the MPPT. My portable panels are set up with another pair of MC4 Y branch connectors, via an extension cable into my camper to an MC4 to 8mm adapter. The most I have seen my 400W panels generate to the Yeti is 290W.

          Let me know if you have any more questions.


          • Thank you for your responses.

            Do you have a cover or protective case for your Goal Zero Yeti 1000? I want to bring it to camping but not sure which one to buy.

            Lastly, is there a way to turn off Yeti after charging? It seems to be on all the time although the LCD light is off.

          • My Yeti 1000 sits inside my camper all the time so I don’t have a case/cover, unfortunately. Goal Zero sells a case but I don’t have any experience with it.

            No, there is no way to turn off the Yeti completely other than turning off the outlets and the LCD light.

            Let me know if you have any more questions.


  35. A thousand thanks for this article jam-packed w critical info! I found more simple answers here than in any other article. My question for you is: I have a Yeti 1250 (320Wmax input), and I would like to run 4x100W Renogy panels. I am no expert in this field, but my basic understanding is that the panels are rated at the maximum power they can produce in an IDEAL situation. So 400W of panels is unlikely to consistently produce that much power right? So taking that into account, do you think I’d have trouble running this setup? (Also, 4x12V panels in series would give me 48V which happens to be the max voltage input for the Yeti 1250) Any info is greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance Jesse.

    • Hello Travis, thanks for your comment.

      You’re correct that 400W of solar panels won’t generate nearly 400W, I have 400W and the most I have seen into my Yeti MPPT is 290W.

      The Yeti 1250 does have a 48V max input, and even though they’re called 12V solar panels, a 12V 100W solar panel actually outputs about 18V when connected to a load under peak performance. So four 100W 12V panels would exceed the 48V limit (18V*4=72V).

      What I would do is either a full parallel connection with a 1 to 4 MC4 Y Branch. Or you could do a series-parallel connection, where you make two pairs of two 100W panels wired in parallel with an MC4 Y Branch (you would need two of these for the two pairs). Then you would connect the two parallel pairs in series, to double both the amperage and the voltage while staying below the max 20A, 48V limit.

      I recommend the series-parallel connection since it would utilize the panels the most. A full-on parallel connection with 4 100W panels might reach the 20A limit during peak hours, which is totally safe for the controller, but you will lose the excess amperage.

      Let me know if you have any questions.


  36. Hi! I love your post and I feel like I followed it closely, but something is not working. I purchased two Renogy 100W panels and mounted them to the roof of my van. They are connected in parallel using all the connectors you recommended to my Goal Zero Yeti 1000. I made my own MC4 cables. Anyway, it is a blazing hot sunny day here in south Louisiana, and after checking all the connections, I am just stumped because my Yeti is registering no input. Wondering if I am missing something obvious.

    • Hello Camella,

      It should definitely register some kind of input.

      My guess is that it is one of the MC4 connectors you made yourself, I have had similar issues and it has always been an MC4 connector problem. Also check that the polarity is correct by following the positive wire from the panel all the way to where it plugs into the Yeti.

      Did you test each panel with the Yeti separately before installing them? If not, I would go up on the roof and test both of them. After testing each panel, test them in parallel without the extension cable.

      Let me know how it goes.

      • Hello Jesse,

        I have had the same problem as Camilla and another writer. I have a 100W Renogy panel, with the greely MC4 to Anderson jumper. I have used a volt meter to check the panel and the end of the Anderson jumper for voltage prior to connecting to the Yeti 1000 lithium. When i connect to the yeti, i don’t see any input wattage. I didn’t make up any of the MC4 connections but i did check them with a volt meter and they showed solid voltage coming through.

        Any suggestions?


          • Correct. Yeti is not at 100%. I connected it and left it installed in the sun for a few hours to see if it would raise battery levels and there was no change.

          • Hmm, ok!

            The only thing I can think of is that the polarity of the MC4 adapter is wrong, which means that the positive is actually negative and vice versa.

            This video shows how to check the polarity with a multimeter. If the polarity is wrong I suggest contacting iGreely for a replacement.


          • Jesse,

            Do you happen to know if there is any way to test if the anderson pole connections on the Yeti are working? (besides finding another Yeti and connecting my solar set up to it?)

            Thanks for all the replies and great information you have provided here. Much appreciated!

          • You can make sure that it’s a live connection with a multimeter, it shows a voltage, other than that it’s hard to test it.

  37. I’m planning to get a Goal Zero Yeti 1500X as soon as they are available, hopefully in the next few weeks.

    For solar, I’m looking at 2 x Renogy 160W panels to install on my van.

    Does 320W (160×2) seem like a good/maximum option for the 1500X?



  38. hi Jesse,

    My brother has a RV (2014 Winnebago Trend) and we were wondering if we could plug the RV’s shoreline power cord into my Goal Zero 1000 120-Volt outlet to try if air conditioner can work or not.

    Here are some info I know:
    -Goal Zero 1000 model 120-Volt AC inverter output has only 12.5A max in specs
    -Most RVs has 13500 BTU air conditioner that needs at least 15A or 30A

    1. So is it even possible to use Goal Zero 1000 to power RV’s air conditioner?
    2. Will it damage my Goal Zero inverter if we try to plug the RV’s shoreline power cord into Goal Zero?

    Thanks a lot!

    • Hello Steve,

      You can plug the camper directly into the Yeti 1000, I do this on a daily basis to power the outlets in my trailer. Since it is like plugging it into the grid, the Yeti will start charging the trailer batteries, which will use 50-400W depending on how charged they already are.

      He’s not going to be able to power the AC though, because as you mention, it requires a lot more power to run than what the Yeti 1000 can output (1500W). You can try, but the overload protection in the Yeti will most likely kick in quickly and shut the inverter down. It doesn’t hurt it, and you can just turn the outlets off and on to reset the inverter, but I don’t recommend doing that over and over.

      Let me know if you have any questions.


      • Hi,

        So how I can directly connect the 30A cable from outside of our RV into GZ Yeti? Do I need to get some sort of (weird-looking 3-prong) adapter extension cord ?

        You mentioned with our RV connected to Goal Zero 1000, we would be able to run everything in RV except for microwave and air conditioner. Which equipment in the RV that I can quickly test to see that they run off my Goal Zero Yeti instead of the RV’s on-board 12V batteries?

        Thanks again.

        • Hey Steve, sorry I should’ve linked to the adapter.

          What you need is a 15A to 30A adapter, like this one (click to view on Amazon). I assume that you already have a twist-lock 30A to the standard 30A 3-prong cable which is used at campgrounds. The 15A to 30A is the same kind of adapter you use if you want to plug your camper into an outlet in the garage.

          If the clock on the microwave is on, then the Yeti is powering the camper. Other than that, you can plug anything into one of the outlets in the camper. You could also test by turning the fridge to electric.


  39. I am soon to be in possession of both a 100w goal zero brief case panel and a 100w renogy panel. I can’t quite wrap my head around how to connect these two together to plug into the Yeti 1000., any help would be appreciated.

    • Hello Sam,

      The Yeti 1000 has both an 8mm and an Anderson PowerPole input, and you can use both at the same time. The Goal Zero 100W panel has an 8mm connector which will plug straight into the 8mm port without any additional adapters. The Renogy panel has MC4 connectors so you’re going to need an MC4 to APP adapter like this that has a positive female connector and a negative male. You might have to change the Anderson connectors so they’re lined up the right way, but it’s easy to do as I show in this video.

      If you only have one port available and want to combine the two, you should get an MC4 to 8mm adapter instead. Then connect the two 8mm connectors to an 8mm combiner. I have heard that there are some issues with some mc4 to 8mm adapters that they won’t perfectly fit in the 8mm combiner adapter, but I don’t know exactly which adapters have those issues.

      Let me know if you have any questions.


  40. Hi Jesse,

    Can I Use Renogy 100W Solar Panel that already has a Built-In Charge Controller with the Goal Zero Yeti 1000? It seems you recommended that we don’t but is there a workaround? Please help since I already bought the Renogy foldable solar panel with controller.

    Thanks again.

  41. Hi Jesse,

    Your articles have been great and I’ve learned a ton along the way. I wanted to ask for some help in figuring out what might be going on with my setup.

    Here is what I have:

    Yeti 1400
    Renogy 200 Watt ( RSP200D-G1) x2
    I wired in parallel using BougeRV Solar Connectors.
    Then bought wire extenders from windy nation to connect to the MC4 to Anderson Pole adapter cable.
    I have everything plugged in and am not receiving any input whatsover. Im curious as to if it matters what sequence you plug things in or if I need to do a reset of sorts for the Yeti to start pulling charge.

    Appreciate your time and effort in all of this. Thanks!

    • Hi AJ,

      That should work without issues, is the Yeti already fully charged? If it isn’t, I would check each connection with a multimeter to make sure the polarity is correct and that it’s working. Let me know.


  42. Hi Jeese,

    Do you have plans to update your blog with the new Yeti X line? We are thinking of getting the 1500X and a Renogy 320w panel (or two 160w) , and your recommended cables/connector for a small home DIY project.

    The Yeti specs according to GZ website:
    Charging Port (input, 8mm)14-50V, up to 10A (120W max)
    Power Pole Charging Port (input)14-50V, up to 50A (600W max)

    The 320w panel specs according to Renogy website:
    The panel is rated at 24v
    Max Power at STC: 320W
    Open Circuit Voltage: 40.1V
    Short Circuit Current: 10.08A
    Optimum Operating Voltage: 33.7V.

    You mentioned the max of 22v limitation on all older Yetis so I am not sure if the new 1500X can handle the 320w panel. I am choosing one big panel because of space constraint, is there any advantages for using more smaller panels? Thank you in advance this is a tremendously helpful resource that you are sharing.

    • Hello Tom, thanks for your comment.

      Yes, I am going to update the article to include the newer Yeti X models within the next couple of weeks.

      And yes, the 1500X should be fine with that 320W panel since the voltage is below 50V. I do recommend giving Goal Zero a call just to make sure, but based on the specifications it’s well below the limit!

      In my opinion, the less panels the better because less panels equals less connections. The more connections, the more voltage drop, so by only having a single panel you’re keeping the voltage loss at a minimum.

      Just connect the panel to the MC4 to Anderson adapter, plug it into the Yeti, and you’re set!


  43. Hi Jesse,

    I am very impressed with the mastery of the subject on the GOAL ZERO generator, because in France, we do not have any technical information.

    I would like to share with you my little experience following the acquisition of a YETI GOAL ZERO 3000X generator since one Week. I have 3 Boulder 200 W solar panels GOAL ZERO connected in parallel with an MC4 connector into ANDERSON port and 1 Boulder 100 W solar panel GOAL ZERO connected into 8mm port.

    Theoretically, the GOAL ZERO 3000X can integrate as input:
    a) 600W in the ANDERSON port,
    b) 120W in the 8mm port (on the front on the ANDERSON port) and
    c) 120W in the 8mm port under the cover ;
    a total of 840W input (and more in documentation…).

    I noticed (real) with the 3 solar panels of 200W connected in parallel (with the MC4 connector) and integrated in the Anderson port of the Zero Goal : 480W min – 520W maximum, with a very sunny day. With an efficiency of 87% maximum and 80% min (so very good !). The tilt and orientation of the solar panels is fundamental.

    To this configuration I added the 100W GOAL ZERO solar panel (8mm port) connected directly to the front port or to the port under the cover. Connection of the 8mm port with a 15 foot extension. I was surprised after several tests that adding 100W did not change the input load ? In some cases, with the 2 connections (600W + 100W) the power is reduced to 250W max ??

    I tested the connection only of the 100W solar panel connected to the 8mm port of the 3000X, and I get about 60 to 67 watts.
    By first connecting the 100W solar panel under the cover (8mm port) then second the anderson port (600W), I get 550W input, but not more.
    A) *Do you have any explanations for these findings ? Do you have some technical documentation or video to demonstrate how to connect pannels en “series” and in “parallel” ?

    In the case of the absence of sun, I would like to connect a vertical wind turbine of 400W to 600W as input to the YETI GOAL ZERO 3000X.
    B) *Do you have any feedback on this type of connection ?

    I know that the MPPT controller (only for the 3000X) is designed to handle fluctuations in solar panels but is not suitable for wind turbines, which requires very significant fluctuations with regard to the irregularity of the winds.

    C) *Which brands and models of vertical wind turbines (400W/600W or more) are compatible with the GOAL ZERO 3000X?
    D) *Which wind turbine controllers are compatible with the GOAL ZERO 3000X?
    E) *What cables / connectors to use
    F) *Do you have some technical documentation or video to demonstrate the connection from a YETI GOAL ZERO with vertical WIND TURBINE ?

    Thank you very much for your answers.

    Best regards !
    Philippe from France.

    • Hello Philippe, sorry for the late reply!

      Interesting findings, thanks for sharing! Sounds like the panels perform as expected when you connect the 100W panel before the rest. 550W from 700W of solar panels is really good. In terms of why it depends on which you connect first, I don’t know exactly, and I recommend mailing Goal Zero and asking about that.

      Unfortunately, I don’t have any experience with wind turbines so I can’t give you any advice there. I would contact Goal Zero and ask. All I know is, as you mention, that MPPT doesn’t like wind turbines, but I bet there is a way to get it done.

      Sorry I couldn’t be more helpful!


  44. Is it ok to use a 100w panel to charge a battery and a power station simultaneously? I have a 100w renogy panel that splits off using y adapters to a Yeti 400 (using mc4 – 8mm) adapter and to a renogy controller/battery. I’m sure it would be reduced charge to the battery, but I would only plug in the Yeti as needed. Would this cause any issues with either the yeti or the battery? Thanks!

    • Hello Dan,

      Sure you can, the generated electricity will just be split between the two, but it won’t cause any issues or damage either as long as the connection to your 12V battery goes via the charge controller on your panel and the connection to the Yeti bypasses the controller.


  45. I have a 250 watt 24 v panel that I would like to hook up to my yeti. I paid $65 for the panel and I’d like to have a solution that is not a lot more than that. This seems ugly, but it looks like the I can buy a cheap mppt charge controller to feed the lead acid batteries in my camper, then use the 12V yeti charge cable to charge the yeti. To make it worse, what bad things would happen if I plugged the camper into the 110 outlet in the yeti? Seems like I would have a loop of yeti trying to charge the house batteries through the 110 and the house batts charging the yeti with 12v. The loop may not be a problem when the sun is shining. I could disconnect the yeti charging when the sun goes down.

    v < ———– < ———– < ———– mppt –> lead acid –> 12v charge cable –> Yeti — > 110 for camper –> 12 v charger

  46. We have two (2) Renogy 200 W solar panels on our van roof and they are connected in parallel. We would like to purchase the Yeti 1500, can you tell me if this will work and if so which adapter(s) we will need?

    • Hey Charlene,

      Yes, it will work. You could even connect the two panels in series instead of parallel since the 1500X can handle up to 50V.

      This is the adapter you need to connect it to the Yeti 1500X. You just gotta turn the Anderson connectors on the adapter to match the input on the Yeti (slide them off of each other, turn and slide on).


  47. Hi Jesse
    Outstanding job on your site and all this great information!
    Apologies if you’ve already answered this and I missed it.
    I have the GoalZero Boulder 100 with the single 8mm blue output plug but I DO NOT want to use any of the Yeti battery pack. (I am using this for a ham radio application and will charge a 40 AH LiFePO battery)
    My question is this: I’m having a devil of a time finding a quality female adapter to plug the blue 8mm male into – in other words, 8mm female to MC4 adapter. Do you have a good source?

  48. I have a yeti 3000 with four solar panels two solar panels are from Windy nation, the other solar panel is from Renogy and the other solar panel is from host. I would like to be able to connect all four solar panels to the 3000 for maximum input

  49. Hi,
    Thanks for all the great info! I have a question about connecting an older but hardly used Sharp 75 watt solar panel I have. The black and red wires that come out of the back of the solar panel have no special connectors, no MC4, etc., it’s just plain red and black wire. What I was wondering is if I could get the MC4 /8mm adapter and cut the MC4 connectors off and then wire that directly to my panel with a spade connector so I could plug the 8mm into the goal zero? Or maybe there’s an 8mm adaptor made for this circumstance specifically?

    • Hey Jason,

      Yes, you can do that. Just make sure that the spade connectors can handle the amps and volts. Also make sure the panel is a 12V panel (unless you have a large Yeti X) so the VMP voltage is below the 22V limit.

  50. Any reason why I cant use 4 of the NewPowa 100w flexible panels in parallel into my older Yeti 3000?

    BTW. This has got to be one of the most helpful posts I have ever seen on the internet. You write very clearly and leave nothing ambiguous. I also like all of the links. Thank you so much. Steve

    • Thanks, Steven, I appreciate it!

      Yes, you can connect those panels in parallel as long as they are the 12V version and have a VMP less than 22V. I would plug them into the Anderson PowerPole port on the MPPT charge controller.

      You would just need the MC4 1-to-4 Y Branch, and the MC4 to Anderson adapter. Hold the Anderson connectors when sliding them off of each other to reconfigure the orientation. Some people grab the wires and pull them right out of the connectors, which is not what you want to do.

  51. Hello. Thank you for your article. It was very helpful. One question. I may buy the 8mm cable, as well as an extension, to connect renogy 100w suitcase to my Yeti 400. Will the use of these and an extension adapter interupt the efficiency between panel and battery? Is it better to have a shorter cable? Are GZs panels made to pair more efficiently with their own line of product? Thanks again.

    • Hey Scott,

      Yes, longer cables and more connections equal more power loss, and worse efficiency. The wire gauge also matters a lot.

      Since the Goal Zero panels come with the 8mm or Anderson connector, they will theoretically be more efficient since you’ll have one less connection (no MC4 to 8mm/Anderson adapter), but the panels themselves aren’t made specifically for Yeti power stations.

      I wouldn’t worry about the efficiency with a single 100W panel as long as you don’t plan on using a very long extension cable. I bet your planned setup vs a Goal Zero panel + extension cable setup would perform the same since Goal Zero’s extension cables are not very efficient (long and high wire gauge).

      Make sure you get the suitcase that doesn’t have a solar charge controller built-in, since the Yeti already has one.

      Let me know if you have any questions.


  52. thanks for your very useful info.
    i have a goalzero yeti 3000x. My understanding is that it can take up to 800 watts, but how would that be wired? 4 160 watt panels wired in parallel, plugged into the anderson, with 1 more plugged into the 8mm port? That’s 800. Does that work? If you actually wanted to get 800 real watts and you had 6 160 watt panels how could it be rigged? I know a guy who says he had 10 100 watt panels but i can’t understand how it could be rigged up.

    next question – 4 160 watt panels at 6 amps per panel means 24 amps in parallel right? Does that mean i need 4 gauge wire to run the panels to the yeti? that part confuses me thanks

    • Hey Matt,

      The Yeti 3000X can handle up to 600W using the Anderson input, but you can increase that number by adding the MPPT charge controller module. You can only use one of the built-in inputs at a time on the new 3000X, but if you add the MPPT controller you’ll get access to more inputs and be able to add more solar.

      I would make two pairs of three, wiring three together with an MC4 y branch 1-to-3. Then connect the extension cables or Y branches to the MC4 to Anderson adapter.

      Then you would connect one of the pairs to the built-in Anderson input on the left, then the second pair to the MPPT module that you install on the upper right. You should see about 700-750W of input with 960W (160*6) of total solar panels.

      8 gauge wire is enough for the setup above.

      If you want to connect just four 160W panels, you would do it with an MC4 Y branch 1-to-4 which can handle up to 50A. Four 160W panels would most likely output 25-32A, but since I don’t know exactly which panels you’re looking at, you need to make sure the Y branch and the Anderson adapter can handle the amperage.

      Then connect them to the MC4 to Anderson adapter, and into the Anderson input on the left on the Yeti 3000X. This way you wouldn’t need the extra MPPT charge controller. I would use 8 gauge wire to connect these panels to the Yeti.

      Let me know if you have any questions.


  53. Hey Jesse, great write up! I’ve watched some videos and read some stuff which you probably wont agree with but I want to see your personal input towards my setup. So I have already owned a Yeti 400 for sometime with just basic usage of roof fan, small led lights, basic charging for my trips in small enclosed trailer camper build(dont always take it and camp in back of 4runner a lot) . When go leave camp most the time I take the yeti 400 with me and charge through an AC inverter in the car which is pretty quick. So I want to get away from my cooler and get a 12v fridge and seen guys run them on the yeti 400 even with the unregulated 12v. So I want to do that with cheaper Alpicool LG compressor model.

    So I was thinking of getting a Renogy 200W briefcase solar setup because every video I watched your panels never reach full power. It does come with a 20A controller I am going to bypass to the goal zero using the 8mm cable adapter. The panel maxes just under 22v which seems ok from what ive seen here but then it is 11.7A short 10.5A current. My main question is will this actually work or not?

    If that wont work. I was planning to get more 35ah batteries to chain to the yeti400 anyways. If I do that and then run the 200w solar through the 20A controller that came with it charging directly to one the other deepcycle batteries that are then anderson pole chained to the yeti 400. Would this setup work?

    Let me know what you think


    • Hey Spencer,

      If you have the non-lithium Yeti 400, it can actually handle 14-29V, up to 10A (120W max), so connecting a 200W panel would be perfect (as long as you bypass the controller).

      While it will work even with a 12V port that isn’t regulated, I suggest checking what the voltage limit of the 12v fridge is and try to figure out how low you can drain the battery before reaching that voltage.

      The second option is a great idea since it will add more battery capacity. And yes, you can then connect the solar panel to those external batteries. That’s probably what I would do if I wanted to run a 12V fridge with a non-regulated 12V port. I haven’t chained a battery to a Yeti 400, but based on what I have seen it is as easy as it sounds as long as you get the correct Anderson cables.

      Let me know if you have any questions.

  54. J & J, this is a fantastic resource! Thank you! I have a Yeti 1400 that’s a few years old and it has two 8mm inputs. I understand the voltage and wattage limits of those inputs, but I’m not clear if that’s for EACH 8mm input, or do the voltage and wattage limits apply to the two inputs COMBINED? Many thanks in advance!

    • Yes, it’s for each port. So you can have two 18V 6A panels plugged into one port each, or three if you also used the Anderson input. The combined limit these inputs have is 360W, or 30A. If you would like to connect more than 30A, you can buy the optional MPPT expansion module.

  55. Hello, I have a yeti 1000 and I also have a renogy 160w panel. You’ve said in this post that max wattage is 120w, what would I need to do to be able to use my renogy 160w panel with the yeti 1000? Thank you!

    • It’s safe to plug the Renogy 160W into one of the 8mm inputs with an MC4 to 8mm adapter since its VMP voltage is below 22V, even though the input will only be able to use 120W of it. A 160W panel will most likely generate 110-120W on a good day anyway.

      However, since the Yeti 1000 has an Anderson Powerpole input port which can handle more than 120W, you should use an MC4 to Anderson adapter unless you already use that input for something else.

  56. Is EcoFlow 160W Solar Panel compatible with Yeti 1400? I have installed MPPT controller on the Yeti 1400. Also do I need MC4 to Anderson adapter?

  57. Hey, Jesse – thanks so much for the explanations and info. Between you and Nate Yarbrough, I’m knowledgeable enough to be not quite so dangerous!

    Triple checking, I have two Renogy 100w panels going into GZ Yeti 3000x. I believe I want to run in series to get the most volts. Do you agree?

    • Happy to hear that!

      Yes, with only two 12V 100W panels a series connection will be fine. Make sure you use the Anderson input and not the 8mm to get the most out of your panels.

      • Hey, Jesse! It’s been a while and after quite a few trips, I feel the need to add an additional panels for faster recharge. I have room (fingers crossed) for the third Renogy 100W panel but not a fourth. How do I run three panels to not exceed the 50v input? Or is just a third panel not going to benefit?

  58. Hi,
    We are buying a GZ Yeti 6000 as a home back up system. Can you recommend any panels that you would use as a permanent installation on a roof that would work well with the 6000?
    I appreciate your knowledge and this article is so helpful.

    • I would use rigid panels, like the Renogy 100W (click to view on Amazon), or if you want something larger, the Newpowa 200W. These connect to the Yeti with the MC4 to Anderson adapter.

      Depending on how many panels you want, you can do a parallel, a series, or a series-parallel connection. The Yeti 6000X has a 14-50V, 50A limit and allows up to 600W of solar input in total (you can exceed the amperage, but not the voltage).

      Let me know if you have any questions. If you know how many panels you want and the approximate distance between the panel(s) and the Yeti I can help you further.

      • Hi Jesse,
        So I think we’ve decided on the newpowa 200 W 12 V panels. They are going to be about 100 feet away from our generator and mounted on our shed. We were thinking that we should have six panels. Is that an appropriate amount? We’d like to be able to charge the generator as quickly as possible with the Solar.
        If six is the correct number what is the optimal way to hook them up? Two groups of three to make 36 volts each?
        What cord should we use to go from panels on the shed to the house/generator without losing too much of the power we’re generating?
        Thanks for your help!

  59. Hello, solar newbie here looking for help I can’t find anywhere else…
    I currently have a Dometic CFX3 75DZ fridge powered by a Yeti 400 (lead-acid) battery with 2 additional 33Ah batteries plugged into the side ports. The Yeti is charged by a Renogy 200W panel. The system works ok, but the fridge frequently shuts off due to what I believe is a thermal protection cutoff switch? What I’m trying to figure out is how to move the fridge into the shade 200′ away from where the panel is mounted in the sun. I understand that the voltage drop over this distance may now allow this setup to work. Can you recommend a solution to this issue, or do I need to go back to the drawing board and reconfigure the whole setup? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

    • Hi,
      Are you powering the fridge with the 12V cigarette port? Is the 12V port on the Yeti 400 regulated? If not, the fridge might sense a low voltage and turn off.

      A non-regulated 12V port follows the voltage of the battery, while a regulated port outputs a steady voltage until the battery is empty.

      According to Goal Zero you should be able to use a 6mm to cigarette adapter but I’m not sure they make them anymore. Might be worth sending Goal Zero an email and ask.

  60. I have a somewhat related question. I have ordered a Yeti 1000x to modernize my remote cabin solar electrical and inverter setup. I am wondering if I can set up a transfer switch or relay that would switch the AC power source to the cabin from generator to Goal Zero Yeti. In my case the Yeti charged by solar panels would normally supply power to the cabin, but when the generator is started up, the AC output from the Yeti would be switched off and the generator AC would charge the Yeti, and supply the cabin circuits. Is something like this possible, or do I have to manually change the cords around when running the generator?

  61. Hi Jesse,

    Great article! I just purchased a used older (2019) Yeti 1000. I’m looking to run the Renogy 100w flexible panels (mounted to my hardshell rooftop tent) and also their 100w suitcase panels (in case I need to move the panels somewhere). After reading your article I’m thinking I need to run them in parallel if I choose to use both? And I’m assuming that the Renogy panels would need extension cables?



    • Forgot to add, the generator has the optional MPPT module with it so what type of cable extensions would you recommend? HPP connectors? It seems like the cables with 8mm connectors are lighter gauge.



    • Hi Mike, sorry for the late reply.

      You could connect them in parallel, but you could also use both the Anderson input and an 8mm input on the MPPT charge controller at the same time.

      I would do whatever is the easiest and will take the least amount of time to connect. If you’re going to be connecting and disconnecting your portable panel a lot, it would be easier to plug that into the 8mm with an MC4 to 8mm adapter, rather than connecting it in parallel with MC4 connectors each time you want to use it. Then use an MC4 to Anderson adapter with your flexible panel.

      Whether you need extension cables or not depend on your setup, but yes the cables right out of the Renogy panels are very short.

      If you do use both the Anderson (HPP) and 8mm inputs, 14 or 16 gauge adapters would be fine. But I would get 10 or 12 AWG extension cables depending on the total length required.

      • Awesome, thanks Jesse! I can’t wait to get them hooked up. Your articles definitely played a major role in what I’m doing with my solar setup.

        Keep up the great work!

  62. Jesse, et. al. Thanks for the comprehensive information and on-going threads. This has been very helpful for me deciding what to purchase for application, portability and performance. The Renogy 100W flexible panel and Goal Zero 500X and Anderson adapter to 8mm input seem to be a good match. Thank you also for info on setting up parallel and series. I keep coming back to this post for additional ideas for other RV upgrades.

  63. Great article Jesse, excellent info. One question –

    With third party panels (in this case a 100w HQST panel https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08SVXMK3V) and connecting to a Yeti 1000 (not the core or X), would I need to fuse the positive lead from the panel?

    I’ve noticed many fusing the positive lead from the panel when using house batteries. Haven’t come across one with a GZ so figured I’d check to see what your thoughts are. Thanks!

  64. Hi Jesse,

    You’re an amazing resource. Generous and kind!

    I have a Goal Zero Yeti 1400
    I have successfully been powering it from a Yeti Nomad 100 solar modual/panel. Only, what I really want is a permanently mounted panel on the roof of my slide in truck camper. So, I recently purchased a SolorPower Flex 110 panel, and stuck it to the roof. Conveniently there is an SAE plug mounted on the roof of the camper already.
    I connected the SolarPower panel using an MC4-SAE adapter cable (Amazon), and to the Anderson connector to the GZ-Yeti, and NOTHING. No little happy blue light that tells me we’re receiving input power. I double checked the GZ Nomad panel, and its still working (also connected w an SAE adapter cable). I checked the output voltage of the Nomad (20.4 volts DC) and the SolarPower (21.5 volts DC) w a portable voltmeter, clear thru to the ends of the Anderson plugs. (SO, I know the wires are all good) The GZ Nomad makes it happy. The SolarPower does not.
    The GZ Yeti 1400 says “don’t exceed 22volts on the front”.

    What gives?

    SolarPower technical support guy in the Phillipenes was really friendly, but no help in the end. He said to purchased a voltage regulator. (you said NO to this due to the GZ Yeti 1400 having this function built-in).

    I have not been able to reach GZ Tech Support yet.

    Can you help?

    Thanks in advance.


    • Hmm, have you checked the polarity so you’re sure you’re connecting positive to positive and negative to negative? When you check the voltage with the voltmeter you’ll be able to tell. Otherwise, it must be that the voltage is too high or too close to 22V.

  65. Hi Jesse,

    Thank you so much for the well written article, it helped me implement 4 Renogy RNG-100D-SS panels to my Yeti 3000X.

    I’m looking to add additional panels (same model) to maximize the solar input. Their values are: 17.9 volts (Vmp) and 5.72 amps (Imp).

    In the article you state that “Even though the max input of the new Yeti X is 600W, Goal Zero recommends using up to 800 watts of total solar panels.” I would assume this is because you will never actually get 800W of power out of that amount of panels, is that correct?

    So, I’m thinking I can double my panels from 4 to 8 and wire them as 4 pairs of 2 panels wired in series giving me 5.72A and 35.8V per pair, then the 4 pairs would be wired in parallel. If I understand correctly, that would give me 22.88A and 35.8V. Do you see any issues with this?

    Thanks again

  66. Hello, this has been a great help. I bought three 100W HQST panels. Max voltage 18V, max 5.8A. I was only going to use one panel connected to a Yeti 1400 due to the voltage max voltage input 0f 22V. I’m not a big power user, I think, and most time spent in southwest, so plenty of sun. I will be running an Iceco refrigerator cooler and a induction hotplate, and a single serving coffe maker(not all at once of course). I did hook up the cooler to the Yeti and the Yeti to the solar panel. If I am reading the Yeti panel correctly, it is recieving more power than the cooler is using in full sunlight. I have recently purchased the 1500X so am thinking to use the two panels in parallel. This system is installed in a van(surprise,surprise) What would I need to do to to be able to charge the 1400? Do need to disconnect one of the panels somehow when connected to the 1400? Will the 1400 circuitry protect it from an overvoltage input or should I just charge it by plugging into the 1500X? If I understand it right, the biggest advantage to running parallel(more) panels is quicker charging times for the power stations, in full sunlight, and better charging in not full sun conditions.
    Thanks for the help

  67. Hello again, hope I didn’t waste your timein previous question. I think I just answered my own question. Right there in the top storage compartmenet of the 1400 it says ‘exceeding 22V input will cause damage to the unit’. So I’m guessing just best to charge 1400 by plugging into 1500x.
    Thanks again

  68. Jesse,
    First thanks for all the information! My proposed application is to “power-outage proof” a small dorm-type refrigerator for medication storage with a Yeti 3000X and connect that to 3 each Renogy 100W solar panels. Once all connected could I let the dorm-type refrigerator and solar panels operate simultaneously?

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  70. Hi Jesse, this article has been so helpful! I’m currently attempting to connect eight of my 100w panels to my Yeti6000x. I can connect two panels and get a charge but 3-8 panels I get nothing. All the panels use MC4 cables and I’m using the MC4 – Anderson adapter to charge the 6000x. I think I’ve figured out that it’s too much voltage after 2 panels. I cannot exceed 50V. What can I do?

  71. Hi Jesse, great thread, thank you for all the info. The question I have is, all the current, larger, Yetis (1500 and up) is the Anderson input connected to the MPPT charge controller that is built in, or is a separate charge controller necessary? Even GZ is confused on this question, as one rep says yes, the other no. Thank you for all the information contained herein –

  72. Good morning!
    My apologies if others have previously asked this. I have a Yeti 1000x with a Goal Zero Boulder 100w briefcase. I am looking for a less expensive way to increase my wattage than buying another Goal Zero solar panel and would like to know if I can link a Renogy solar panel to the Boulder?
    Thanks much.

  73. “A series-parallel connection

    With a series-parallel connection, you do both by doing two pairs of series with four panels, then combining the two pairs with a parallel connection.

    If you would like to do this, please leave a comment and I will help you out. Tell me what panels you’re planning on using and which Yeti you have.”

    I can’t help it, I gotta know! I’ve got a yeti 3000x but I’m very curious about pulling off a series-parallel double pairing like you mentioned here. I’ve got four renogy 100w mono panels to use!

  74. Hi Jesse,

    I have a Yeti 3000x and want to purchase two Renogy 200W suitcase panels for a total of 400W. I called Renogy and they said that I could bypass the controller by disconnecting the wires and just get an Anderson adapter that would connect directly to the suitcase panels without having to deal with the controller. Does that make sense and is there anything important that I need to be aware of before proceeding? Thanks.

    • Hi,
      I think the latest Renogy 200W (click to view on Amazon) has a built-in bypass. If not, you need to bypass the charge controller, I have done this with a Renogy panel and wrote an article about it. I installed MC4 connectors and then used an MC4 to Anderson adapter to plug it into my Yeti 1000.

      If there is a built-in bypass, you just need to disconnect the positive and negative MC4 connectors between the panel and the controller, then connect the two panels together in either series or parallel.

      I would do it in series since the Yeti 3000X can handle up to 50V. Grab the positive MC4 connector from one panel and connect it to the negative MC4 connector on the second panel.

      This creates a series configuration which adds the voltages together but keeps the amperage the same. The two Renogy 200W panels will output around 37-44V in series.

      If done right you’ll end up with a positive MC4 connector from the first panel and a negative one from the second panel. Now you’re ready to connect the MC4 to Anderson adapter.

      You’re probably going to need extension cables, I still recommend the Geosiry Twin Wire extension cables. Also, make sure the MC4 to Anderson adapter you get is at least 10 AWG (like this one by Electop) so it can handle the total amperage.

      Let me know if you have any questions.

  75. Hi Jesse, if I connect my 3 renogy panels in parallel with the Y connector, do I need an extension from the panel to that connector? It looks from the amazon photo that the three connectors to the panels are very short. It might reach one, MAYBE two, but doesn’t look like it could reach the cords that are attached to the backs of all three panels. Is that right? Or is that Y connector likely to be sufficient by itself?

    • Hi Ken,

      Good point! It depends on how the panels are going to be set up. Is this for a portable or a more permanent configuration, like on top of an RV?

      If you can put two panels next to each other, and the third panel in the middle beneath the two (as seen from above), you won’t need extension cables. I’ve installed panels to an RV roof this way.

      If you’re lining them all up next to one another it should also be fine, and the Y adapter will be placed by the middle panel. I have done this with three 100W Renogy panels.

      Let me know if my answer is confusing or if I misunderstood your question.

      • Oh, yeah, sorry I wasn’t clear. This will be a permanent placement on top of a platform a bit off the ground, feeding to a tiny house. I was going to line them up side by side, but maybe i’ll have to put two side by side and then one going off the other direction, like petals from a flower. If I need an extension, are there any specific ones you recommend for this short connection? Thanks

        • Ok, nice! Not a specific one, but only buy as much as you need (lengthwise) and the lowest gauge possible to limit the voltage loss.

          If you can do without the extension cables, you should, since more connections equal more voltage loss.

          Good luck with your setup and let me know if you have any more questions.

  76. Hi Jesse, a new issue that maybe you can help with: I have two 200W Renogy panels connected in a series to a Yeti 6000x via a 30 foot extension cable. The input readings initially are good, bouncing around between two-digits to 270 or more, but after awhile, the blue light on the input panel goes solid and I get zero input, even in sunny conditions. This can go on for a fairly long time. Then, just as suddenly without any significant sun change, it will start an input feed. This cycles back and forth. I’ve adjusted the connections on the input panel and checked my extension connections. All look good. Thoughts?

    • Hi,
      Interesting, to me it sounds like the charge controller steps in and stops the input, then is put on timeout for a while before allowing a charge again. Is it the 200W panel with the 27V VOC rating?

      Have you done a test with just one of the panels to see if the same thing happens? If it doesn’t happen then I suggest connecting the panels in parallel instead with an MC4 Y branch.

      • Hi Jesse, thanks so much for your thoughts and suggestions. Apparently you were right about the charge controller even though the panels were under the battery stated limits. I switched to a parallel connection and it’s now working fine! Soaking up the sunshine. haha

          • Hi Jesse, Just wanted to follow up with an interesting development: Because of the distance of my 3 (200 W) panels from my tiny house (about 40 feet), I had to connect two iGeely MC4 adaptor cables. The connection point for the extension cable actually melted and now it doesn’t transfer any power at all. I’m going to try to find a single, longer cable if it will reach. Any reason that should happen?

          • Hi,
            Sounds like an amperage overload issue. Can you list all of the cables and adapters you use, and how they’re connected?

  77. hi jesse, this is chris from a company which has portable power stations and solar panels.
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  78. Hi Jesse
    I am installing a 12V 400W solar kit onto my trailer. It will have two 12v 50Ah batteries. What I’m wondering is connecting my very old (I bought it when the first came out) goalZero 400. It works great. The only charging input is the 8mm male adapter (wish it had others). My question is the system came with a power inverter (1200W) that haas a 110V plug. Can I plug the 400 into the power inverter and charge the 400 in this manner? If not any suggestions.

    • Hi,
      Yes, absolutely. Charging a battery with a battery isn’t the most efficient way to do it, but since everything you need is included with your solar kit you might as well do it that way.

  79. Hi Jesse, Ken here with the melted cable connector issue. I wasn’t able to reply on that string, so I’m starting a new comment here, with the cables I’m using for three Renogy 200W panels. I stand corrected, they were not iGreely, as I previously mentioned. Here are the connections from panel to battery:
    –ZOOKOTO Solar Connector Y Branch 1 to 3 4-Way Connector Adapter Splitter Combiner Parallel Adapter Cable Wire Plug Tool Kit for Solar Panel 1 Pair
    -WindyNation 10 Gauge 10 AWG Pair 20 Feet Black + 20 Feet Red Solar Panel Extension Cable Wire Solar Connectors
    –Geosiry Twin Wire Solar Panel Extension Cable – 20Ft 10AWG(6mm²) Solar Extension Cable with Female and Male Connector, Solar Panel Wire Adapter for Home, Shop and RV Solar Panels (10AWG 20FT)
    –Vemote 10AWG Solar Panel Cable Connector Anderson Adapter, Compatible with MC4, Goal Zero Yeti, Portable Solar Generator Power Station(65CM/2.13FT)

    • Hi Ken,
      Thanks for listing everything, that makes it easier to troubleshoot.
      According to the listed ratings, the Windynation and Geosiry cables can handle the total amperage of your three 200W panels.

      The Zookoto Y branch and the Vemote Anderson adapter are both rated for 30A. 600W of high quality panels like yours can output 32-36A, so either of the two can be the culprit (unless the extension cable failed for other reasons.)

      You said it melted by the extension cable connection, is that connector also connected to the Y branch or the Anderson adapter?

      • Thanks for that Jesse. Strangely, it’s the connection between the Windynation ad Geosiry cables where the meltdown occurred. Maybe one of those was faulty. I’ve ordered at single 50 cable which can go from the Y connector to the Vemote Anderson cable directly, so maybe that will solve the problem. I’ll let you know.

  80. Hi. I posted my last comment on the wrong page. I purchased the DOKIO 220W Pro 18V Portable Solar Panel Kit Folding Solar Charger for 12v Batteries/Power Station AGM LiFePo4 RV Camping Trailer Car Marine from amazon and would like to use it to charge my yeti 500x and yeti 1500x. What do you recommend for adapters for each. any help greatly appreciated. thanks!

    • Hi,
      Looks like that panel comes with an 8mm connector, so you can use that to plug it directly into the inputs on the front of both your power stations.
      Just make sure you connect the panel directly without using the solar charge controller Dokio includes.

  81. Hello Jenni and Jesse,

    I have an old yeti 1250 and I used to charge it with a 300 or 400 watt solar panel. I don’t believe there is a charge controller in the 1250. I was looking at the Victron Energy BlueSolar MPPT 100V 30 amp charge controller. Am I missing anything else other then a charge controller? I am looking to fine tune before I jump in to buy a Delta 2 max

    Thank you in advance for any help you could give me,

    • Hi,
      The Yeti 1250 does have a solar charge controller, and it’s actually a good MPPT controller.

      When it comes to charging, there isn’t much you can do to increase the charging speed other than maximize the input with solar panels.

      I’d say the biggest downside with the Yeti 1250 is that it uses lead acid batteries instead of Lithium, which is why it’s so heavy.

      Depending on how long you’ve had it and used it, the battery has possibly degraded and can’t store much of its original battery capacity. So a Delta 2 Max would be a massive upgrade in every way.

  82. Hi Jesse,

    I’m planning on getting the Goal Zero Boulder 100 Briefcase solar panel to charge different powerstations. Is there a set of adapters I can get to be able to charge most powerstations (like CPY 800 PRO PORTABLE POWER STATION 748WH BATTERY 1600W PEAK PWR).

  83. Looking at getting a yeti 200 or 500. I have an old natures power solar panel kit (https://naturepowerproducts.com/products/110-watt-complete-solar-power-kit/) that I’d like to use if possible. The kit has a solar panel and separate controller. I believe I can trash the controller and plug the solar panel directly in to the yeti… albeit with an SAE cable to 8mm adapter (like this: https://a.co/d/3Jwr1hr)

    Is this viable? Sorry I’m a noob and can’t find this question anywhere… so I’m starting to think I’m being stupid for even trying to leverage the Natures Power panel.

    • Hi,
      It is technically compatible because the panel has a VMP rating of 18.9V which is below the 22V limit of the Yeti charge controller. It should work with the adapter you linked to.


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