Why Use A Diesel Heater in an RV?
Trying to stay warm during winter camping without draining your RV battery is no joke. That’s when I discovered diesel heaters, and they’ve been a game-changer for my off-grid RV heating.
These things are surprisingly fuel efficient and whisper-quiet, plus they use very little power. Whether you’re boondocking in your RV or van camping, a 12 volt diesel heater can seriously extend your season without constant battery worries.
I installed a portable diesel heater for RV use right in one of my storage compartments. I could’ve gone permanent, but I chose an all-in-one diesel heater RV setup, specifically a Vevor model, because I wanted flexibility to move it between rigs. Now, my small motorhome heats up fast, stays warm, and I’m not burning through propane or electricity.
If you’re looking for the best diesel heater for RV winter camping or a solid boondocking heat source, this guide will show you exactly how I did my RV diesel heater install, the diesel heater exhaust setup, and what I’ve learned about diesel heater power usage.
Permanent vs Portable Diesel Heaters
There are basically two types of diesel heaters you’ll see for RVs and vans, permanent and portable. They both do the same job, but the setup is totally different.
Permanent diesel heaters come in pieces: the main unit, a fuel pump, and a tank. These get installed directly into your rig. If you’ve got a diesel RV or van, you can actually tap into your vehicle’s fuel tank. It’s a clean setup that looks almost factory-installed. Perfect if you want something that stays put and you never have to mess with again.
Then there’s the portable diesel heater for RV use, what some folks call an all-in-one diesel heater RV system. Everything’s packed into one metal box: heater, pump, and fuel tank. You can literally pick it up and move it wherever you need heat like another RV, your tent, the garage, whatever.
This is your best bet if your rig runs on gas instead of diesel, or if you just want an RV storage compartment heater you can install and remove without making it a whole project.
Why I Chose a Portable Diesel Heater
My RV runs on gas, so tapping into the fuel tank like diesel motorhome owners do wasn’t happening. I needed something with its own fuel source. Plus, I really liked the idea of having flexibility. Being able to move the diesel heater to a tent, my garage, or maybe a different rig down the road.
That’s why a portable diesel heater for RV use just made sense. It’s completely self-contained. I can set it up as an RV storage compartment heater when I need it and pull it out when I don’t.
Pros
- Uses very little electricity.
- Great for off-grid or solar setups.
- Warms up small RVs and vans quickly.
- Much quieter than a traditional RV furnace.
- Portable design makes it easy to move between setups.
- Runs on diesel, so you don’t have to rely on propane refills.
Cons
- Needs its own exhaust and vent setup for safe use.
- Startup requires a strong 12-volt power source.
- Fuel tank has to be refilled separately.
- Takes some time to install properly the first time.
- Can smell like fumes the first few minutes of runtime.
RV Storage Compartment Install
A portable diesel heater isn’t exactly plug-and-play. You can’t just toss it in and fire it up. You need to set up an exhaust pipe and air intake so it can breathe properly, plus hook it up to your 12-volt system.
For my Vevor diesel heater (click to view on Amazon) installation, I used a big storage compartment under the main bed in my 24-foot Four Winds motorhome. That space is roughly queen-bed sized, which gave me plenty of room for the heater itself, my camping gear, and good airflow around the unit.
I positioned it right near the storage door, which makes refueling super easy and keeps the diesel heater exhaust setup short and straightforward.
Then I cut a vent into the RV interior near the back. Even though it’s not centrally located, it pumps out enough warm air to heat the entire space. Works perfectly for RV winter camping, even when it gets pretty cold out.
Parts Needed
(click links to view products on Amazon)
- Portable Diesel Heater
- Fuel Filter – if the heater didn’t come with one already installed (click here to see fuel filter installation post).
- Hole Saw – for installing inside vent and drilling hole for exhaust pipe, 3 inch works well.
- 3 inch Heat Duct Tubing
- 3 inch Pipe (if there’s a gap in the RV wall)
- Pipe Cap – for when the heater isn’t being used.
- 12 Volt Battery (can be RV battery or external battery)
- Floor Cap – for the exhaust hole in the storage compartment floor.
Optional
Powering the Diesel Heater
Let’s talk about diesel heater power usage. These things are actually pretty efficient, they only pull around 40 watts while running. But during startup, they can draw anywhere from 8 to 13 amps (60-150 watts) depending on the heater size. That initial kick is where you need to pay attention.
If you’ve got a smaller 3kW or 5kW unit, you can usually run it straight from a portable power station since most have a 10-amp 12-volt outlet. My 8kW model needs a bit more juice to fire up, at least 15 amps.
Since most power stations don’t put out that much on their 12-volt ports, I went with a dedicated 12 volt diesel heater setup using an extra lithium battery that lives in the storage compartment next to the heater.
If you want to wire directly to your RV battery, just make sure you use 12-gauge wire (or thicker) and a plug rated for at least 15 amps. You could also install a beefier 12-volt outlet near the heater for convenience.
I’d skip using an inverter. These heaters are designed to run on DC power, and converting AC back to DC just adds unnecessary complications and potential issues.
Installing the Exhaust Pipe
The diesel heater exhaust setup is one of the most critical parts of this whole project. You’ve got to make sure those fumes vent away from your RV safely. And since mine’s portable, I also wanted the exhaust easy enough to disconnect when needed.
I started by lifting my heater up on four-inch wooden blocks. This created space underneath for the exhaust pipe to route down through the floor. Then I drilled a three-inch hole in the storage compartment floor so the pipe exits straight down under the heater. My RV’s storage floor is plastic, which made things pretty straightforward, but if yours has plywood and insulation, you’ll need to work through those layers more carefully.
Make sure you leave enough clearance around that pipe to prevent heat damage. I wrapped mine with fiberglass heat wrap, then covered the whole thing with aluminum tape. The tape does get warm when the heater’s running, but it’s way better than touching bare fiberglass. If you’ve got anything flammable or meltable nearby in your storage area, wrapping that exhaust pipe isn’t optional. It’s a safety must for any RV heater alternative setup like this.
Installing the Interior Vent
Your interior vent setup is going to look different depending on your RV’s layout. For some people, there’s just a thin piece of plywood between the storage compartment and the living space. If that’s you just drill a hole big enough for the vent that came with your diesel heater and clamp it to the air duct. Done.
My setup was a bit trickier. There’s a six-inch gap between my storage wall and the interior wall under the bed. So I grabbed a three-inch PVC pipe to bridge that space.
The vent slid right inside, and I screwed it in place to keep everything secure. On the storage side, I left a little bit of pipe sticking out so I could easily connect the diesel heater’s heat duct.
I used screws to secure the vent to the inside of the pipe to hold it in place.
There was a little bit of a gap between the vent and the pipe that I sealed off with aluminum tape.
On the storage compartment side, I left enough pipe sticking out to easily secure the duct tubing.
I also got a rubber cap to put on the pipe to seal off the storage compartment when I take out the diesel heater.
The whole thing ended up looking pretty clean, tucked under the bed where it’s out of the way. But it still pushes warm air through the RV really well, which is exactly what you need for off-grid RV heating.
Airflow and Safety Tips
Something crucial about diesel heaters is they need good airflow to operate safely. The unit pulls in air for both the fan and the combustion motor, so your storage space needs to be roomy enough for it to breathe.
Keep flammable stuff away from the unit, especially around the exhaust and air intake areas. My storage compartment has two doors, a big one on the side and a smaller one in back. When I’m running the heater, I keep the main door shut so exhaust fumes can’t sneak back inside, but I crack that smaller door open to let fresh air flow through. This simple trick keeps the air clean and prevents any nasty fume or heat buildup.
Good ventilation also helps your heater run more efficiently, which matters when you’re relying on it as your main boondocking heat source. Plus, it keeps your RV from smelling like hot plastic or diesel exhaust.
A little extra airflow makes a huge difference in both safety and comfort during RV winter camping trips.
Controls & Operation
Most portable diesel heaters come with a little LCD screen and a remote control. The screen is where you handle the basics like turning it on and off, adjusting heat levels. My Vevor diesel heater installation came with an LCD screen that has three simple buttons, plus a remote that lets me control everything from inside the RV. The signal gets through the walls no problem, which is pretty convenient on cold early mornings.
I know some people complain about these remotes being finicky, but mine’s worked fine so far. I usually run it around level 3, which is enough to keep the whole space comfortable.
Since I got mine, Vevor released an updated version of their portable diesel heater with Bluetooth control. With the new model, you can use your phone to fire up the heater, tweak the temperature, and check what level it’s running at. Pretty nice upgrade, especially when it’s freezing out and you want to get the heat going without crawling out of bed.
If you’re shopping for the best diesel heater for RV use and you like tech features, that Bluetooth option is worth considering. Makes the whole experience of using a 12 volt diesel heater even more user-friendly.
My Diesel Heater Testing
Heating Test Results
I wanted to see how this thing actually performs, so I tested it when temps dropped to freezing. Started at 32°F outside and inside my RV too, since it had been sitting cold.
On medium (H-3), the temperature inside my 24-foot motorhome went from 32°F to 40°F after an hour. Cranked it up to the highest setting (H-6), and I got a 14-degree jump to 46°F in the same timeframe. Not bad for freezing conditions.
After two hours, the space felt genuinely warm. By hour three, it was starting to feel like normal room temperature. Once it hit a comfortable temp, I dialed it back down to maintain the heat without burning through fuel.
The noise levels really impressed me compared to my RV furnace. This diesel heater is so much quieter. You hear a gentle fan sound from the vent and that’s it. The fuel pump is usually what bugs people, but since the heater is installed inside the storage compartment, I can’t hear it at all.
If you’ve got a bigger rig, there are multi-vent diesel heaters that distribute heat more evenly. You can also add insulated ducts or split kits to push warm air into different sections of your RV.
Power & Fuel Usage
Let’s talk numbers. During my three-hour heating test, my 100Ah 12-volt lithium battery dropped from 100% to 99%. Yep, that’s it. The diesel heater power usage is ridiculously low, which is exactly why these are such a game-changer for boondocking or any off-grid camping situation. Compare that to a regular RV furnace sucking down around 150 watts per hour just to spin the fan.
Fuel consumption depends on your heat setting. Running mine on high, I’m burning about half a liter of diesel per hour. The built-in tank holds five liters, so that’s roughly 9-10 hours of runtime on full blast. You won’t need it maxed out once your space warms up. Drop it to a lower setting, and you’re looking at 20-30 hours before you need to refill.
Diesel prices bounce around, sure, but even when they spike, running a diesel heater still beats propane costs. It’s hands down one of the most cost-effective and reliable ways to keep warm while camping. For anyone serious about extending their season or doing real winter camping, understanding diesel heater power usage makes this an easy choice as an RV heater alternative.
To Wrap It Up
After living with my Vevor portable diesel heater for a while now, I can say it’s one of the best upgrades I’ve done to my RV. It keeps everything toasty without killing my batteries or making a racket. Boondocking during the winter has been no problem, I still wake up with plenty of juice left in the battery.
It’s nice now that I’m not constantly hunting down propane refills or having to move the whole motorhome just to top off the tank. And when it’s time to pack up and travel, I just pop off the exhaust pipe, seal the hole with a 3-inch plug, and I’m good to go.
If you do any cold-weather camping or need a solid boondocking heat source that won’t leave you stranded with a dead battery, a portable diesel heater for RV use is hard to beat. It’s straightforward to set up, crazy efficient, and makes RV winter camping way more enjoyable. No more waking up all night long to the sound of the power hungry RV furnace, just reliable, quiet heat whenever you need it.
